|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Doug Reed, Bob Rentka 1990|
|Submitted By:||kjdetlor on Oct 20, 2008|
|Comments on Legacy||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
4 days ago
|Watch out for wasps just below the first bolt and at the first roof!|
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.
It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.
Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by some on small crimps through that section too.
Make some tough moves getting into the next roof section. If you're not too pumped by the end, make a few last hard moves to the chains and soak in the awesome view from the top.
My new favorite sport pitch. Full value!