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DescriptionThis area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower. Getting ThereThe climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet Rose Tower
MysterZ 5.7 Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Jackrabbit Buttress
Black Dagger 5.7+ PG13 Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Brownstone Wall
Cat Scratch Fever 5.8 Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+ Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet Cloud Tower
Birdhunter Buttress 5.9 Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III The Rainbow Wall
Sweet Thin 5.9 Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 730 feet, Grade II Brownstone Wall
Ginger Cracks 5.9 Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III Ginger Buttress
Armatron 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet Brownstone Wall
The Nightcrawler 5.10b Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Brownstone Wall
Power Failure 5.10 Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Ginger Buttress
Unimpeachable Groping 5.10+ Sport, 7 pitches, 760 feet, Grade III Ginger Buttress
Juggernaut 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Jackrabbit Buttress
Pro Choice 5.11a Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Brownstone Wall
Emerald Forest 5.11b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet Jungle Wall
Jungle Wall 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet Jungle Wall
Time's Up 5.11+ Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III Brownstone Wall
Cloud Tower 5.12- Trad, 6 pitches, 810 feet, Grade IV Cloud Tower
The Original Route 5.12 Trad, 14 pitches, 1000 feet The Rainbow Wall
Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
Olive Oil 5.7 NV : Red Rock : ... : Rose Tower
A great, easy romp with 7 quality, consistent pitches. Start well around the left side of Rose Tower, up a gully of sorts at the base of a big corner/ramp.P1-3: Up the obvious line. Keep an eye out for belay bolts.P4-5: From the belay on the ledge to the left, traverse right 5 meters, follow line up and into corner. Continue up and belay on a big ledge to your right.P6-7: Traverse right again and up into a dihedral (crux). Continue up this to the top. Scramble off the back of the tower....[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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