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Juniper Canyon
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Aquarium Wall 
Brownstone Wall 
Cloud Tower 
Ginger Buttress 
Jackrabbit Buttress 
Jungle Wall 
Luxor Wall 
Rainbow Wall, The 
Rose Tower 

Juniper Canyon 


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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 16, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon

Description 

This area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower.


Getting There 

The climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet   Rose Tower
MysterZ   5.7     Trad, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Jackrabbit Buttress
Black Dagger   5.7+ PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Brownstone Wall
Cat Scratch Fever   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis   5.8+     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet   Cloud Tower
Birdhunter Buttress   5.9     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   The Rainbow Wall
Sweet Thin   5.9     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 730 feet, Grade II   Brownstone Wall
Ginger Cracks   5.9     Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Ginger Buttress
Armatron   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Brownstone Wall
The Nightcrawler   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Brownstone Wall
Power Failure   5.10     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II   Ginger Buttress
Unimpeachable Groping   5.10+     Sport, 7 pitches, 760 feet, Grade III   Ginger Buttress
Juggernaut   5.10c/d     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Jackrabbit Buttress
Pro Choice   5.11a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Brownstone Wall
Emerald Forest   5.11b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170 feet   Jungle Wall
Jungle Wall   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Jungle Wall
Time's Up   5.11+     Trad, 6 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Brownstone Wall
Cloud Tower   5.12-     Trad, 6 pitches, 810 feet, Grade IV   Cloud Tower
The Original Route   5.12     Trad, 14 pitches, 1000 feet   The Rainbow Wall
Browse More Classics in Juniper Canyon

Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
Following pitch 2, the best pitch!

Olive Oil 5.7  NV : Red Rock : ... : Rose Tower
A great, easy romp with 7 quality, consistent pitches. Start well around the left side of Rose Tower, up a gully of sorts at the base of a big corner/ramp.P1-3: Up the obvious line. Keep an eye out for belay bolts.P4-5: From the belay on the ledge to the left, traverse right 5 meters, follow line up and into corner. Continue up and belay on a big ledge to your right.P6-7: Traverse right again and up into a dihedral (crux). Continue up this to the top. Scramble off the back of the tower....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV


Photos of Juniper Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

Juniper Canyon

BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon

But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...

But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...

Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon area.

BETA PHOTO: Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...

Juniper Canyon, November 2008. <br /> <br />

Juniper Canyon, November 2008.



The Juniper canyon area

The Juniper canyon area

Gunsight Notch

Gunsight Notch

Rainbow Mountain

Rainbow Mountain

Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis

Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis

Approach to Juniper

Approach to Juniper

The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right

The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right

The mouth of Juniper Canyon.

The mouth of Juniper Canyon.

Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.

Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.

Juniper Canyon

Juniper Canyon

Juniper canyon

Juniper canyon

Juniper canyon rock

Juniper canyon rock

Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow Wall. November 2012.

Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow W...

South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And the left side of Brownstone Wall.

South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And th...