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Juniper Canyon

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Aquarium Wall 
Brownstone Wall 
Cloud Tower 
Ginger Buttress 
Jackrabbit Buttress 
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Rainbow Wall, The 
Rose Tower 
Tree Hugger Buttress 

Juniper Canyon  


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Location: 36.11436, -115.48707 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,152,397
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 16, 2004
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Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

Description 

This area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower.

Getting There 

The climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

83 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',30],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',11],['5.8',12],['5.9',22],['5.10',22],['5.11',6],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   Jackrabbit Buttress
MysterZ   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   Rose Tower
Black Dagger   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Brownstone Wall
Cat Scratch Fever   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 700'   Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   Cloud Tower
Ginger Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Ginger Buttress
Armatron   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Brownstone Wall
Birdhunter Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Rainbow Wall
Sweet Thin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 730'   Brownstone Wall
The Nightcrawler   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550'   Brownstone Wall
Power Failure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450'   Ginger Buttress
The Clod Tower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'   Cloud Tower
Unimpeachable Groping   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 7 pitches, 760'   Ginger Buttress
Juggernaut   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Jungle Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Jungle Wall
Emerald Forest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Jungle Wall
Time's Up   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Brownstone Wall
Cloud Tower   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 810'   Cloud Tower
The Original Route   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 14 pitches, 1000'   The Rainbow Wall
Browse More Classics in Juniper Canyon

Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
Just say no to crack, especially if it's wide.  Jared Coburn cuts right on the first pitch.

Crimson Chrysalis 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NV : Red Rock : ... : Cloud Tower
This super classic of Red Rock Canyon NCA has a little bit of everything; cracks, face, big pro, small pro and is nine pitches long. The route is at the mouth of Juniper Canyon. The access is the same for Olive Oil, but Crimson is located on the Cloud Tower, which can be identified by a pinkish tower capped by a red top. The Cloud Tower is located on the north facing side of Juniper Canyon. As you approach the mouth of Juniper you'll see a bushy ramp that angles up and right (west) to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Juniper Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis
Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis
Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon area.
BETA PHOTO: Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...
Juniper canyon rock
Juniper canyon rock
Juniper canyon
Juniper canyon
Juniper Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon
Juniper Canyon, November 2008. <br /> <br />
Juniper Canyon, November 2008.

The Juniper canyon area
The Juniper canyon area
The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right
The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right
But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...
But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...
Gunsight Notch
Gunsight Notch
Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.
Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.
The mouth of Juniper Canyon.
The mouth of Juniper Canyon.
South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And the left side of Brownstone Wall.
South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And th...
Juniper Canyon
Juniper Canyon
Rainbow Mountain
Rainbow Mountain
Juniper Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon
Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow Wall. November 2012.
Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow W...
Approach to Juniper
Approach to Juniper
munching flowers
munching flowers

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