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Juniper Canyon

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Aquarium Wall 
Brownstone Wall 
Cloud Tower 
Ginger Buttress 
Jackrabbit Buttress 
Jungle Wall 
Luxor Wall 
North Face of Rainbow Mountain 
Rainbow Wall, The 
Rose Tower 
Tree Hugger Buttress 

Juniper Canyon  


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Location: 36.11436, -115.48707 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,441,380
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 16, 2004
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You & This Area
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Juniper Canyon early in the AM.

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area has something for everyone. There are good moderate routes on the Rose Tower, Jackrabbit Buttress, and Brownstone Wall. Bigger routes are up at the Rainbow Wall and Cloud Tower.

Getting There 

The climbs in this area are most often approached from the Pine Creek parking lot. Follow the trail toward Pine Creek Canyon. Near the the mouth of the canyon, turn left (south) in the vicinity of the old homestead foundation. Cross the year-round stream and follow the trail up one long switchback to the rolling terrain along the base of the hillside. Climbs in the Rose Tower area depart westward fairly soon, but the trail continues all the way to the Juniper Canyon streambed for access to the Brownstone Wall and Rainbow Wall. Crimson Chrysalis and the Ginger Buttress are reached by crossing the streambed and climbing the steep hillside to the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

93 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',12],['5.8',12],['5.9',25],['5.10',25],['5.11',8],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Juniper Canyon:
Geronimo   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches   Jackrabbit Buttress
Olive Oil   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   Rose Tower
Black Dagger   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   Brownstone Wall
Crimson Chrysalis   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   Cloud Tower
Saddle Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 590'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Birdhunter Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Rainbow Wall
The Black Pearl   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Sweet Thin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 7 pitches, 730'   Brownstone Wall
Ginger Cracks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   Ginger Buttress
Armatron   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Brownstone Wall
The Nightcrawler   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 550'   Brownstone Wall
Power Failure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 450'   Ginger Buttress
The Clod Tower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 1200'   Cloud Tower
Unimpeachable Groping   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 7 pitches, 760'   Ginger Buttress
Juggernaut   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Jackrabbit Buttress
Emerald Forest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Jungle Wall
Jungle Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Jungle Wall
Time's Up   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   Brownstone Wall
Cloud Tower   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 810'   Cloud Tower
The Original Route   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 14 pitches, 1000'   The Rainbow Wall
Browse More Classics in Juniper Canyon

Featured Route For Juniper Canyon
The Black Pearl

The Black Pearl 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Jackrabbit Buttress
In this unassuming little nook lies one of the best cracks you'll find in the park. The Black Pearl is a classic old-school style testpiece. Superb ebony rock plus a variety of interesting moves and sizes make this one of the best single pitch routes you'll find. I would give it 6 stars if I could.There are 2 crux sections but the climbing is fairly consistent the entire way. While much of the climbing is wider, the occasional face hold or foot makes the climb more elegant and varied but sti...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Juniper Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis
Sunrise hike to Crimson Chrysalis
Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...
BETA PHOTO: Some of the key landmarks in the Juniper Canyon ar...
Juniper Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon
Juniper canyon rock
Juniper canyon rock
Juniper canyon
Juniper canyon
The Juniper canyon area
The Juniper canyon area
Gunsight Notch
Gunsight Notch
The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right
The beautiful, sheer Rainbow Wall on the right
Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.
Juniper Canyon, from the Pine Creek parking lot.
But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...
But I was gonna climb Crimson Chrysalis today...
Juniper Canyon, November 2008.
Juniper Canyon, November 2008.
The mouth of Juniper Canyon.
The mouth of Juniper Canyon.
South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And th...
South side of Juniper Canyon in the winter. And th...
Juniper Canyon
Juniper Canyon
Rainbow Mountain
Rainbow Mountain
Juniper Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Juniper Canyon
Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow W...
Hiking in towards Juniper Canyon and the Rainbow W...
Approach to Juniper
Approach to Juniper
munching flowers
munching flowers

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