Avg: 3.6 from 842 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||126,398 total · 600/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Morley on Feb 19, 2004 · Updates|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
P1 - Straight up the crack / right corner to a bolt belay 5.7 (130 ft).
P2 - Pitch 2 continues to climb the same crack / corner until you reach a recess with another 2 bolt belay. 5.8 four bolts (90 ft).
P3 - You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 60 meter rope. Nice jams on this pitch. Continue up past a steep section to a 2 bolt hanging belay. 5.8+ (65 ft).
P4 - Enjoy the chimney above and continue on into the small cracks to a nice ledge to belay. 5.8 (90 ft).
P5 - Continue up the small-to-hand cracks past a bolt for 90 feet to another small ledge 5.8+ (90 ft).
P6 - Up another 90 feet angling right following 5 bolts. 5.6 (90 ft).
P7- A nice long face pitch clipping 9 bolts that will end in the red rock. 5.6 (110 ft).
P8 - Continue up the RR to a ramp with a bolt. Then traverse directly to your right, remember your follower, and then up the left ramp. Finish the pitch up the varnished face clipping 3 bolts. 5.7 (75 ft).
P9 - Up and right clipping 4 bolts over a small roof to the top. 5.8 (80 ft).
[Reprinted with permission from Jed Botsford, Climbing Ranger - RRCNCA].
- This is one of the most popular moderate multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks. Plan on crowds. Consider a nearby alternative such as Ginger Cracks, Power Failure, Unimpeachable Groping, Test Tube, or Spare Rib if multiple parties are on route or waiting in line at the base.
- The route is almost entirely in the shade the majority of the year. It is often windy as well. Plan accordingly.
- The route can be climbed in as few as 5 pitches if linking. Bring extra draws.
- All belays are hanging, except for the top of pitch 4 where there is a small but comfortable ledge.
- It is common to have ropes snag on rappel.
- All rappels can be done with a single 70-meter rope, which reduces weight and the chance of a snag. Make sure your rope is a full 70m (i.e. you haven't trimmed the ends for some reason). Tie knots in the rope-end, use an auto-bloc/prussik, and a rappel extension, as a couple rappels are *very* close.
- If in doubt, bring a headlamp (never a bad idea).