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This good beginner lead starts just right of Jellyroll Arch. Follow the Y-shaped crack (its left branch when it splits) to its end. Place a small cam in a horzontal crack and finish on a good belay ledge. Belay from a solid tree. It's a full 150 foot pitch, so have enough gear to be comfortable. Rappel on two ropes or descend the 3rd-4th class gully system to the north.
standard rack to 2"
Brad getting to the Y in the crack. The climb sta...
BETA PHOTO: 5.6 Insidious Crack on Grouse Slab.
Brad is moving up past the Y. Paul can be seen at...
|By Brad Allender|
From: Alameda, CA
Nov 21, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Great climb, lots of fun. The description on here is right on. The gear is pretty good the whole way, taking lots of 2" and smaller. The belay ledge is nice and easily protected, or the tree is fine too (although it is more of a big shrub than a tree, still, looks solid). Third class up to the top and hike off, although, it isn't the shortest hike back to the bottom of the climb. If you want to rappel, the climb is definitely 150', so you will need 2 ropes.
May 15, 2010
Woo Hoo! My first trad lead. Kinda misleading though, because this is a very easy (but fun) crack that never stressed me out.
I traversed to the right where there are a pair of bolts, belayed from there and we rapped down.
|By Josh Cameron|
Sep 5, 2011
Good for you Life Is Good having this be your first trad lead. I wouldn't recommend it, though, because after the start there is one section that always feels committing to me for a 5.6. This section always strikes me as quite, um, what's the word, insidious.
From: grass valley, ca
Jul 4, 2012
better first trad climbs anywhere
|By DJ Reyes|
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 24, 2012
Basic crack climbing in a nice local. not super memorable.
From: Incline Village, NV
Dec 19, 2013
f.a. john hoffman 1972 free solo
|By Lucian G.|
From: Berkeley, CA
Jan 13, 2014
This was my first lead as well, last summer. Great stances all the way up make this a fun one where you can take your time and work on gear placements, although as someone mentioned, there was a tricky section in there where you needed to commit and climb through. Make sure you don't accidentally go right at the fork like I did. Nice belay ledge with a small tree and other pro placements.