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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: [[107874725]] (ca. 1999)
Page Views: 742 total, 7/month
Shared By: philfell on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

The first bolt is shared with Superslide. Clip it and go up and right. Delicate slab climbing past the first 4 bolts, then you get a bit of a break heading to the 5th bolt, which is a little ways up and to the right. Past two more bolts on a steeper face, but good "holds" are there. After the last bolt you can either run it out to the top, or you can get in a few pieces in the dirty corner to the left which I recommend.

Be careful on the run to the 5th bolt although it is easier climbing then below it is a bit of a run.

The climbing stays pretty thin and sustained throughout the climb.

You will also need some gear to set up an anchor up top to belay your second up.

Walk off.

Location

Right of Jellyroll look for the two slab climbs that share the first bolt. This one is the line that goes right, not left.

Protection

6 draws a few finger size pieces up top and some gear for an anchor

Photos

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Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
I got on this by mistake some time ago. It would be really nice to have a bolt anchor, bolts are so close it really feels like a sport route, but then it took us forever to make an anchor out of some boulders and stuff up top to clean the draws. I guess I shoulda looked in the guidebook but... :)

Fun climb though! Slabby. I managed several recoveries on non-existent holds after my feet slipped. Jul 21, 2015
Kevin Hecka
Speed of Light
Kevin Hecka   Speed of Light
Btw...the description of this route's a bit off. 'Assault and Battery' is way off to the left of this route. Like Rocco said you can hook up with Mitigate if you straight on through the last 3 bolts and up.

Out,
Cpt. Cheesedog Nov 21, 2012
Kevin Hecka
Speed of Light
Kevin Hecka   Speed of Light
Yo Rocklord! Long time no see.

Yeah, Rocco and I took this project on around 99? The direct up the water slide is the best run for your money.

climb on.

K. Nov 5, 2012
I didnt do the first on bearclaw,Kevin Hac did the 1st Aug 26, 2012
The first bolt on Bearclaw go up right,superslide goes up left,ANB sits up by midgates 2 belay,as 2 1/4 bolts w/ wire hangers to cold shuts,maybe 30ft. Aug 26, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10c
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10c
Great slab climb and the run from the 4th to 5th bolt is a good distance, but the climbing begins to ease at that point. I also fell right before I clipped the 4th bolt. Slid down the slab with the quickdraw in my hand. Fun, fun, fun! Aug 24, 2011
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Very nice slab climb! Very thin through the first 4 bolts with crux at climbing past 4th bolt. Dicey stance to clip crux bolt. I grabbed the sling to clip the rope as I thought I was about to slip off. Fell at crux and just kept same stance with all 4 points touching and slid in that same position till rope caught my fall. Fun fall! The route does ease after 4th bolt but still fun upper steep wall for a few moves. I climbed the face as much as possible above but was able to get much desired gear in crack system on left. Fun route but a tough one! Nov 8, 2009