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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: John Hoffman - 1983
Page Views: 1,007 total, 15/month
Shared By: mattymck on Jun 14, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.

Location

Micro-crack, thin face slab route just right of Caifura

Protection

Four-bolts, two-bolt anchor on top.

Photos

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MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.10b
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
  5.10b
Definitely quite stiff for .10b May 30, 2015
MAR
  5.10c
MAR  
  5.10c
I found this a bit stiff for 5.10b, but mostly because I could not reach the positive hold necessary to confidently pass the first bolt while trusting that slippery left foot (I'm 5.4, for reference). My follower grabbed the hold early on and moon walked those feet until one stuck enough that he could step up onto something better. Hilarious ;). Sep 4, 2012
You can get a #3 offset in the little crack before the first bolt and after one hard move you're in 9+ territory. I actually liked this route more than Caifura. Jun 24, 2012