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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: John Hoffman, 1972 (free solo)
Page Views: 9,013 total, 50/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Feb 18, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

This good beginner lead starts just right of Jellyroll Arch. Follow the Y-shaped crack (its left branch when it splits) to its end. Place a small cam in a horzontal crack and finish on a good belay ledge. Belay from a solid tree. It's a full 150 foot pitch, so have enough gear to be comfortable. Rappel on two ropes or descend the 3rd-4th class gully system to the north.

Protection

standard rack to 2"
RyanDecker
North Lake Tahoe
RyanDecker   North Lake Tahoe
This was my first mock lead and while easy enough then, it pushed me when actually on the sharp end. The beginning is a bit tough to get off the ground but easy enough to make a couple moves to a good stance with good pro. Another move or two gets you to another good stance to get a solid second piece. From here the crack gets a bit flaring and is definitely the crux for me. There are some small face holds for the feet but if trying to stay in the crack its a bit strenuous. From here holds get more solid and the angle eases until you are walking to the top. Jul 28, 2017
Lucian G.
California
 
Lucian G.   California
 
This was my first lead as well, last summer. Great stances all the way up make this a fun one where you can take your time and work on gear placements, although as someone mentioned, there was a tricky section in there where you needed to commit and climb through. Make sure you don't accidentally go right at the fork like I did. Nice belay ledge with a small tree and other pro placements. Jan 13, 2014
Schwisow
shitlake tahoe
Schwisow   shitlake tahoe
f.a. john hoffman 1972 free solo Dec 19, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Basic crack climbing in a nice local. not super memorable. Jul 24, 2012
anthony509
las vegas nv
 
anthony509   las vegas nv
 
better first trad climbs anywhere Jul 4, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.6
Good for you Life Is Good having this be your first trad lead. I wouldn't recommend it, though, because after the start there is one section that always feels committing to me for a 5.6. This section always strikes me as quite, um, what's the word, insidious. Sep 5, 2011
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
Woo Hoo! My first trad lead. Kinda misleading though, because this is a very easy (but fun) crack that never stressed me out.

I traversed to the right where there are a pair of bolts, belayed from there and we rapped down.

Fond memories! May 15, 2010
Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.6
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.6
Great climb, lots of fun. The description on here is right on. The gear is pretty good the whole way, taking lots of 2" and smaller. The belay ledge is nice and easily protected, or the tree is fine too (although it is more of a big shrub than a tree, still, looks solid). Third class up to the top and hike off, although, it isn't the shortest hike back to the bottom of the climb. If you want to rappel, the climb is definitely 150', so you will need 2 ropes. Nov 21, 2005