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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: [[106825675]] 1990
Page Views: 174 total, 2/month
Shared By: philfell on Jun 27, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

Short slab climb, with only one bolt. Probably doesn't get climbed as much as it should because it only having one bolt and being runout to the anchors, a groundfall is possible if falling while clipping the anchors.

With this said don't let that stop you from leading this climb. It is safe up to and clipping the first bolt. Then the crux comes while you are still below the bolt, so a fall at the crux is very safe. Some thin slabs moves get your feet just past the bolt. From there it is a jug haul to the anchors.

If you are able to do the crux clean the run to the anchors should be a walk in the park. Overall a good climb that should probably be climbed more.

Location

50 feet right of Jelleyroll Arch Look for one bolt in the red face with some old open shuts at top for the anchor

Protection

one quick draw

Photos

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Very cool, short route.

My girlfriend, who was belaying me, said "[I] would have decked if I botched the move before the jug."

I somehow did not notice this on my onsight..... Aug 23, 2016
Kevin Hecka
Speed of Light
Kevin Hecka   Speed of Light
If you can lead Shortcake, Creampuff and Bear=Claw...you can do this route; a little greasy, and a bit heady, but it's all there. Nov 5, 2012