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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: John Hoffman, 1983
Page Views: 4,959 total, 34/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Nov 19, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Short Cake is an excellent face climb on beautiful solid granite. The climb goes up just right of the Jellyroll Arch start. Climb the Jellyroll Arch corner for 10' or so and turn the corner on the right onto the face just below the first bolt. Continue up on thin face passing 2 or 3 more bolts. At one point you get very close to Insidious Crack, the 5.6 climb to the right. At this point move left and follow an obvious line past horizontal and vertical cracks. Good gear protects this whole upper section. The last gear placement in a horizontal crack puts you about 15' below the tree with an unprotected lower angle slab to finish. If you made the bottom face moves ok, this will be no big deal. There is maybe a 5.8 move to get onto the slab and then easier ground to the top. About 50' of class 4 scrambling gets you to the very top of this section of rock. Now,the guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe by Mike Carville shows the start to be close to or on Insidious Crack to the right and step left onto the face to the first bolt (apparantly the original start) and the ending of this route going left into a wide crack to finish. This ending just didn't seem correct as the crack was much further left and why not continue a great face climb with an obvious and straight up face ending...

Protection

This route is 1/2 sport and 1/2 trad, literally. The first 1/2 is 3 or 4 bolts quite widely spaced and the second half is all trad and can be adequately protected with small to medium gear. The pitch is very long at 150' and ends at the tree which can be used for an anchor along with the large block. Some long slings are useful here.

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