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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,638 total · 35/month
Shared By: slk on May 27, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Pitch 1: Fingers to hands to run-out slab (for me at least) to nice belay.

Pitch 2: Crack/face climbing to nice belay

The crux for me was mental, the slab. Easy climbing but if you go, you go and onto a small nut (that's all I could get) swinging sideways on a long swing. Weird pulling out onto face but then it's easy climbing.

Location

Past Insidious crack follow the gully up right, then left and then just look for the obvious crack system up in the left hand corner. There is also a 5.6 right slanting that shoots off a bit up the start of the climb.

Protection

The protection is good in most spots. I used a #4 once for an anchor but really could have done without.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this last Sunday. I thought it was a good route with some interesting moves for a 5.7. I guess I would probably say it seemed a bit stiff for the grade. Jul 24, 2012
BruceB
Reno, NV
 
BruceB   Reno, NV
 
Fun route with some nice moves.
There are bolted anchors and chains at the top of P2 (to the right). You can rappel to the chains at the top of Anxiety attack, then another rappel to the base of the climb. A 70m rope just reaches the first rap, a 60m will require a bit of 3rd class down climbing. Aug 15, 2016
Ben Taggart
San Francisco, CA
Ben Taggart   San Francisco, CA
This route is pretty fun, but it's really 2 short-ish sections of 5.7 climbing (one on each pitch) with some 4th-class and low-fifth climbing filling the rest.First pitch is pretty exciting, nice hand crack getting up to a ledge and then you have to move out onto an unprotected face after getting some really small gear in. You're standing on the ledge while placing that gear though, so it's not super stressful. The face climbing has pretty good feet if you look for them, and it gets easy and low-angle pretty quick.

We approached by climbing "5.6 crack" and then walking up to the start of Mitigate. A good link-up. Jun 18, 2018

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