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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,112 total, 11/month
Shared By: philfell on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Delicate face climbing past the first 3 bolts then the climbing gets a bit easier but the bolts spread out a bit.

The crux is down low on the climb. I had to zig-zag quite a bit down low to find the holds to make it work out to be 5.10. Going directly from bolt to bolt is much harder than 5.10, but being patient and finding the holds unlocks the sequence.

There is quite a run from the 3rd bolt up to the 4th bolt that may give you an "anxiety attack", but keep your cool and trust that the climbing gets easier after bolt 3.

Location

Located above Bearclaw and assault and Battery. Climb up 3rd class slabs to the black streaked wall above. Look for the bolts to the right of the black streak.

Protection

5 draws for the climb. Anchors with chains up top.

Photos

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Patrick Mulligan
  5.10a
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10a
The first two bolts on the climb need to be replaced. 1/4" of the sleeve and bolt are exposed at the 1st bolt where rock has broken away and both the first and second bolt spin (old SMC hangers). All the other bolts have been updated. This route is not R or PG in any way. Aug 5, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Led this last Sunday and I thought it was stiff for the grade, but then I may not have "unlocked" the correct sequences, which is really the key on this one. Very sequential to be sure! I want too far left at the top bolt and had to make a super delicate traverse back to the right which for me was the crux, but then I messed up the sequence and made it unnecessarily harder. Pretty much hard all the way to the top as far as I'm concerned. Jul 25, 2012
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
Yee HAW!

This is a fun route - no easy cruise up. Slow and steady through the moves. Great climb. May 15, 2010