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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 129 total, 1/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jun 25, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

The technical crux is definitely getting off the ground but the mental crux is continuing up and getting clipped to the first bolt. Continuing up from here eases a bit but is still good, fun face climbing. Although the runout to the top is quite far, it is not that difficult. You could veer right to easier ground if need be. Although Carville's guide shows the climb to go straight up to the first bolt, I think the climb starts about 5' right of the bolt and goes straight up finally gaining good holds even with bolt and then a reasonable traverse left to get clipped. Going straight up to the bolt from the ground looks much harder than 5.9!

Location

The Slide is the right-most climb on East Face and is found just right of Unknown about 20' right of the right slanting climb called The Slash.

Protection

Two widely spaced bolts protect the route in a typical Joshua Tree style. Two new bolts with chains act as anchors and rappel bolts.

Photos

mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.10 R
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.10 R
Felt harder than Unknown. The commiting part felt like getting to the first bolt, not the moves beyond it. First bolt 15ish' up with a large boulder and some rubble in the landing zone. Moves beyond that were fun and positive. There is a second bolt on the route and the anchor looks good. Jul 3, 2012
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Hard climb for me. Very small foot holds and small sloping handholds. We did it on TR, which can be set up with some slings, and 3rd/4th class to the anchors from the right. There are NO rap chains or chains on these anchors Oct 11, 2009