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Routes in East Face

5.6 Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Anxiety Attack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Assault and Battery T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bearclaw T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Caifura S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Cream Puff S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face to the Right of Two Bashie Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grease TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Insidious Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jellyroll Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mitigate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pebble in the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rocco's Demise S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Short Cake T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slide, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Two Bashie Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Hoffman and Victor Marcus, 1984
Page Views: 1,815 total, 13/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Jun 25, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

I believe there are 3 cruxes on this climb. The first is getting off the ground up to first bolt. The second crux is getting feet over first overhang to third bolt. The third crux is stepping over the second overhang and getting a stance above.

Location

Pebble in the Sky is found on the East Face on the left wall 10' left of The Slash. It is the middle of 3 routes on this section of East Face just left of the bolt line called Europa.

Protection

The first two bolts protect the lower face climbing but there is a long runout to under the overhang on easier rock. Good medium size cams protect here. Clipping the thankfully there 3rd bolt (not shown in Mike Carville's Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe guide) over the first overhang is quite a stretch but you definitely want to get clipped prior to making the move up and over to be standing at the bolt. A 4th bolt can be reached over the bulge on the face. Two newer bolts with chains can be used as anchors and for rappelling.

Photos

Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10d
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10d
The key to this climb is ignoring both your brain and body telling you that you won't stay on the wall for the first 2 clips. 9 out of 10 times, your brain and body are correct, so when you finally get off the wall, it feels pretty good.

That said, there is no way this is only a 10b! Jun 28, 2016
Schwisow
shitlake tahoe
 
Schwisow   shitlake tahoe
 
f.a. john hoffman, victor marcus 1984 Dec 19, 2013