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Black Magic 
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Groove, The 
Hemorroids in Flight 
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Hemorroids in Flight 

5.10c

   
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Type: Trad, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
FA: R. Cashner, D. Hatten, R. Sumner, 1979.
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin at a tree where the Farce starts.
Climb past a bolt to a shallow jamcrack. follow this to an overhang with two bolts.
Climb over this overhang and up to a belay.
Scrambling leads to the top.


Protection 

to 2", draws.



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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10c

Did this 6/07. Very interesting route with a variety of moves on it. Starts same spot as the farce. you climb up to a leeper + buttonhead that actually protects a delicate move. Nothing else between you and the ground, so take care.

The roof crux is pretty physical, but takes awesome gear, so plug it quick and fire it.

Up above is easier climbing, but crack is wide/flarey and gear isn't great...

Also, I took a #3 camalot and placed it, and probably could have placed another. 4 bolts on the climb, 2 are good modern bolts, one is the leeper/buttonhead one, and there's one more old bolt.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.10c

The two old bolts have been removed and replaced with modern 3/8" bolts.