Ten Climbs for 2009

Well, it's that time of year again. I enjoyed reading last year's list of objectives ("Ten Climbs for 2008") so I thought I'd get the ball rolling for '09 - better late than never!

Chicken Lips, Red Rock
Hot Fudge Thursday, Red Rock
Sunflower, Red Rock
Fishhook Arête, Mt. Russell, High Sierra
Third Pillar of Dana, High Sierra
Open Book, Tahquitz Rock
White Punks on Dope, The Needles
Illusion Dweller, Joshua Tree
NE Face, Pingora, Wind River Range
Culp-Bossier, Hallet Peak, Rocky Mountains

One climb...

Freeway @ Squamish.

Gulp.

Gambit, Eldo
Bastille Crack, Eldo
North Face, The Maiden, Flatirons
North Face, The Matron, Flatirons
Ellingwood Ledges, Crestone Needle
North Face, Lone Eagle Peak, Indian Peaks
Space Between, McCurdy Park Tower, South Platte
Peak C, Gore Range
Finnegan/N. Gold Dust Peak, Sawatch
Kieners, Longs Peak

Hopefully by the end of the Fall I will be leading comfortably in the 5.8 range.

Mithrael Dihedral, Mt. Russell, High Sierra
Fishook Arete, Mt. Russell, High Sierra
Red Dihedral, Incredible Hulk, High Sierra
Direct North Butress, Middle Cathedral, Yosemite
Galactic Hitchhiker, Glacier Point Apron, Yosemite
South Face, Washington Column, Yosemite
Regular NW Face, Half Dome, Yosemite
The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite
Epinepherine, Red Rocks
Dream of Wild Turkeys, Red Rocks

Moses in Canyonlands
Washerwoman in Canyonlands
McLovin in Indian Creek
Wham Ridge in CO
Wind River alpine routes
Dancing Queen in Indian Creek (finally red point the dam thing)
Angel Fright in Sedona
Idiot Wind and All along the Watchtower in the Swell
The ten - ten challenge in the creek
Capitol Peak in the Elk Range CO

S.L. wrote:5. Kor/Covington, Steamboat Rock, CO 6. Mud Flap Girl- Mud Wall, Glenwood Canyon, CO

If you need a partner for either of these, lemme know. Cool choices, MP folks make this the place to hang. Less politics, more climbing!

Bee Line Cochise Stronghold AZ
Direct South Ridge Notchtop RMNP CO
Whodunit Tahquitz CA
Sedona Scenic Cruise Sedona AZ
Mainliner Sundance Buttress Lumpy Ridge CO
Crimson Chrysalis Red Rocks NV
The Grand Wall Squamish
Outer Space Eldorado Canyon CO
The Odyssey Superstitions AZ
Cathedral Peak Sierra CA

These are my favs so far, not sure if you meant climbs you want to do or want to reccommend.

Michael G. wrote:These are my favs so far, not sure if you meant climbs you want to do or want to reccommend.

The idea here is to list the climbs you hope to get on this year. It's fun to set an ambitious goal and see how far you get.

Assuming that I get in shape, find my balls and get some time off from the family:

Don Juan Wall, the Needles
anything on Mt. Russell
anything on Cardinal Pinnacle
Insomnia, Suicide
Iron Cross, Suicide
Spook Book, the Needles
High Plains Drifter, Buttermilks
Anti Jello Crack, Dome Rock
anything on the Captain
any summit in the Sierra

I'd add the Rostrum to the list but that's just a pipe dream.

Fat Dad wrote:Assuming that I get in shape, find my balls and get some time off from the family: Don Juan Wall, the Needles anything on Mt. Russell anything on Cardinal Pinnacle Insomnia, Suicide Iron Cross, Suicide Spook Book, the Needles High Plains Drifter, Buttermilks Anti Jello Crack, Dome Rock anything on the Captain any summit in the Sierra I'd add the Rostrum to the list but that's just a pipe dream.

How about Vampire at Tahquitz?

Shawn Mitchell wrote: How about Vampire at Tahquitz?

Mmmmmmm, Vampire good.

The Prow, yosemite - solo
The Nose, yosemite
Third Pillar of Dana, High Sierra
Red Dihedral, Incredible Hulk (High Sierra)
Igor Unchained, The Needles (CA)
Thin Ice, The Needles (CA)
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in-a-day (or push at least), yosemite
Epinephrine, Red Rocks
Open Book, Tahquitz
The Vampire, Tahquitz

If I can just finish graduate school I'll hopefully tick all those, which would absolutely make my year!

I did the Vampire a number of years back with that nice direct start on the Bat Crack. Still, it's getting to be so long ago that it almost doesn't count anymore.

I posted these first few in a separate thread, but here are 10 routes now:
1. Snake Dike
2. Regular NW Face of Half Dome
3. DNB of Middle Cathedral
4. NE Butress of Higher Cathedral
5. Red Dihedral Incredible Hulk
6. East Buttress of El Cap
7. Sands of Time Calaveras Dome
8. Regular Route, Fairview Dome
9a. Traveler Buttress
9b. to Corrugation Corner Main Wall, Lover's Leap
10. Any/All routes I put up at my new development.

S.L. wrote:6. Mud Flap Girl- Mud Wall, Glenwood Canyon, CO

Cool to hear about people wanting to climb our local Glenwood Canyon choss! Glenwood Canyon climbers outside of the Puoux or No Name are a rare breed.

I love all the lists here. It gets me psyched for 2009 and inspired for some new climbs.

My 2009 list looks something like this:

Salathe Wall - El Cap in a fix and blast
Steck-Salathe - Sentinel
Astroman
Crack in the Cosmic Egg - Zion
Atlantis - Black
Prow - Yosemite - solo
Moonlight - Zion - free
Tricks of the Trade - Zion
Primrose Dihedrals - Moses
Another new long free route in Glenwood Canyon

Shittin' Bricks at Paradise Forks
Shotgun at Paradise Forks (want to onsight)
Shangri La' in Sedona
Hangin' Judge at Winslow Wall (want the onsight)
Disco Machine Gun at Indian Creek
Tenderloins at Indian Creek
Broken Brain at Indian Creek
Crimson Cringe in Yosemite (hopefully someone has removed the grass)
Salad Bar at Donner Summit (a nemesis of mine)
Moonlight Buttress in Zion free (my ultimate goal)

"Romano's Route"--Spider's Web, Keene Valley, NY
"Suburban"--Rumney, NH
"Stone Monkey"--Rumney, NH
"Persistance"--Gunks, NY
"The Great Dihedral"--Wheeler MT., Vermont
"Falconer"--Moss Cliff, NY
"The Prow"--Cathedral Ledge, NH

Can't think of any others presently, as the only thing on my mind is snow in the forecast!

Centerpiece, mt Lemmon, red point
Crows Nest, mt lemmon
Leviathan Dome, North Face, mt Lemmon
Voodoo Child via direct start, mt Lemmon
Desire, mt Lemmon
Too Tough to Die, Cochise Stronghold
End Game, Cochise Stronghold
Days of Future Past, Cochise Stronghold
Stiletto, Cochise Stronghold
Anything in Yosemite

and many others

Well, since nobody has chimed in from the south yet, I'll be the first. Except for the last two, all on my list are great southern climbs.

Fathom (5.10a) – Laurel Knob
Peregrine (5.9) – Looking Glass
Grand Funk Railroad (5.9) – Stone Mountain
Jefferson Airplane (5.10a) – Sunset
Medusa Tree (5.9) – Jamestown
Talon (5.8) – Tennessee Wall
Bumblebee Buttress (5.8) – NC Wall (Linville Gorge)
Obsession (5.11a) – Little River Canyon
Son of Easy O (5.8) – The Gunks
Frogland (5.8) – Red Rock

Now let's see how many of these I actually lead this year!

JL

In no specific order:

Thin Slabs Direct - Gunks
Double Crack - Gunks
Alphonse - Gunks
Kor Crack - Ragged Mtn, CT
Unspecified - CT
Broadway - Ragged

That's not ten, but there is a lot to do to get here!