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Illusion Dweller
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 1,235
votes
Early Access
Routes in The Sentinel - West Face
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Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Centipede, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Medicine Man T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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New Latitude T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Not for Loan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sweep Walkers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Where Janitors Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01305, -116.17126 |
| FA: | Matt Cox, Spencer Lennard and Steve Emerson, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 73,355 total · 276/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb the obvious right-slanting crack using jams and lieback moves until encountering a roof high on the route. A good rest is found here, so plug in some gear and pull the cruxy roof before topping out onto a nice ledge with anchors.
Rappel with ideally a 70m rope or downclimb easy slabs on the south face.
Location
The far right side of the west face is the location of this classic right-slanting crack. It's also about 50 feet right from the base of Desert Song, which starts behind some yuccas.
There's a beer named after this route?
Mountain Sun Pubs & Brewery
- "Just like one of the best climbs at Joshua Tree, this IPA, chock full of UK Kent Golding hops, is not only beautiful to look at, but after quaffing a few pints, you’ll have that same satisfaction as if you were pulling that final crux move at the end of the climb. This beer is also dry hopped with whole flower, UK Kent Golding hops."
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