Avg: 2.8 from 35 votes
|Type:||Trad, 850 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jon Martinet & Randal Grandstaff|
|Page Views:||3,707 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Jan 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionAlthough everyone comes to this wall for Solar Slab, there are other worthwhile routes nearby. One is the beautiful, but serious Sunflower. This line starts on the low-angle buttress immediately to the right of the top of the approach gully. It then follows a crack that eventually disappears while the route continues up a long stretch of blank, sweeping slab. It again gains a crack system that leads to the 2nd terrace high above.
When originally climbed, the fourth pitch had only two protection bolts. Several more have since been added, making the route considerably tamer, but still somewhat runout.
Pitch 1: Just to the right of the Solar Slab approach gully, climb up a very easy low-angle slab.
Pitch 2: Continue up to a good ledge beneath a small, right-facing corner. There is a bolt anchor for this belay.
Pitch 3: Climb straight up the right-facing corner above. When it disappears, strike out onto the slab. Pass a protection bolt then move left to a bolted belay station. 5.8+, 140'
Pitch 4: Head straight up off belay through delicate moves, following the bolt line. When the bolts run out, strike out through the last of the slab for the crack above. Belay when possible. 5.9, 120'
Pitch 5: Continue up the crack until another belay stance appears. 5.7, 100'
Pitch 6: An easy pitch leads to the base of the last pitches of Solar Slab. 5.5, 45'
Descent: Descend as per Solar Slab- either rappel the route or continue to the summit of Solar Slab and descend into the Painted Bowl.