Fun House 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | J cote, L Poorman |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Mar 1, 2007 |
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Looking up from the first belay on a particularly ...
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Description This is a very popular route as a first Cathedral climb...It can be very busy on weekends and should be avoided at these times if you don't like crowds (and who does?).... One of the things that makes Fun House a great beginner route is that the climbing is challenging but well-protected and not too exposed...It has tree cover much of the way and that makes folk feel more comfortable.... Pitch 1: Climb the corner past a pin...Stemming and using really nice holds.... Mantel and climb the next corner section break left slightly to a crack, a tricky move puts you on a very brief slab and on to a very nice ledge where you belay from trees.... Pitch two: From the ledge, easy climbing will put you on another nice ledge.... Climb the short corner to a few cracks, climb the cracks ranging from fingers to wide hands to yet another ledge.... Continue up cracks until you can break right to a ledge and belay at a cluster of trees.... From here, choose your way to the tree ledge...The normal finish from here is Upper Refuse (5.5) or you could do any number of other great routes at harder grades than 5.7....
Location On the lower, left slab to the right of the obvious arch of Three Birches (5.8).... Scramble up (40ft) to a ledge at the base of the right-facing corner that marks the first pitch of Fun House.... Be careful if you don't rope up, there are a few ways to get up there and you don't want to fall from any of them....
Protection Normal rack to #3 cam.... Long slings are useful for slinging trees....
Mike Garrity approaching the first belay of Fun Ho...
| Christa stemming out the first pitch.
| Matt and Christa somewhere below me on Funhouse.
| Preparing to clip the pin before the first ledge o...
| Unknown climbers on Funhouse. The leader is just ...
| Unknown climber on the moves leading up to the bul...
| Unknown climber spread-eagled on the crux dihedral...
| Finishing up the initial corner.
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By Todd Harris From: Lakewood, CO Mar 21, 2009
| Climbed this route 08/2008. Solid 5.7. The first dihedral can spook a beginner leader due to the vertical nature of the rock. About 20 feet up the first dihedral, a perfectly placed pin allows for a nice quickdraw for additional security. The pin is solid. Looks like it's been there for years. While the dihedral has a slight overhang feeling to it in the middle (near the pin), the holds are perfectly situated to allow for ladder-like movement up the rock. Great climbing. It's my favorite 5.7 in the northeast. Get there early on the weekend. As soon as you finish the first dihedral, the climbing starts to get more slabby with good and varied holds. |
By JSH Administrator Apr 27, 2009
| The 2nd pitch crux feels a good touch harder to me, now that the tree root no longer offers a Samsonite(TM) jug past the bulging hand/fist section. In contrast to the above comment: *don't* get there early, that's when everyone else gets there. Head up well past noon: it'll be shady, and hopefully the crowds will have dispersed. |
By cjdrover From: Somerville, MA Aug 2, 2009
| Todd is right - the pin is very solid. A new partner and I did this route 7/25/09 - I slipped of some nasty oozing slime while placing a piece higher up and took a surprise whipper onto the pin. So much for warming up on an easier route... |
By Chris Graham From: Bartlett, NH Aug 7, 2009 rating: 5.7+
| I have always loved this route, it was my first 5.7 lead back in the early 80's so I have fond memories. I find it is a great climb to take with less experienced climbers as there is little exposure and big ledges to chill on. It is a blocky route and could easily snap ankles on any part of the climb at any given moment, so early leaders should stay focused when making the moves up...particularly on the second pitch (pooh link-up which most parties do). Still, they are fun moves, it protects well and offers one of the few easier ascents up the lower left wall. |
By Ryan Barber From: Rumney, NH Mar 14, 2012
| Just climbed it yesterday (first rock climb of the year), and it was nice and dry where others were still quite wet from the winter thaw. Havnt been on this since summer of 2,000. The pin was the first pro for me (I think it was only about ten feet from where I started), and I backed it up with a nut and from there, pushed through to the ledge. There is definitely room for more gear above the pin, but the stances are less solid. After, we did Upper-Refuse (a classic combo), but it was tricky to get onto becauce of the big bleeding ice column that looked ready to colapse. |
By Barrett Stetson Aug 5, 2012 rating: 5.7
| Great route, protects plenty and especially where you need it. The start of the first pitch was a bit damp/slimy when we were there too, guessing it doesn't dry out as quickly as the rest of the route. Probably a good idea to anchor your belayer before starting P1, a bad slip on some dampness before your first piece could take you both for an unpleasant ride. |
By Ian Dibbs Aug 23, 2012 rating: 5.7+ PG13
| There is a trail which runs along the base of the cliff underneath the route where you can look up through the trees and confirm the starting location which is shown in pictures 3 and 5. Getting to the base from the trail (40 feet up),can be slippery business after a rain, spacious area at base of climb when you get up to it. |
By Eric Embree From: Asheville, NC Sep 10, 2012
| Havn't done this route yet, but can someone tell me how tall in feet this route is? |
By EDGE Sep 10, 2012
| Eric, the first pitch is about 80', and the second maybe 100'. |
By john strand From: southern colo Sep 10, 2012
| You can make it to the tree ledge with a 60m , but i wouldn't..too much drag. |
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