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Fun House 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J cote, L Poorman
Page Views: 8,799
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (144)
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Looking up from the first belay on a particularly ...

Description 

This is a very popular route as a first Cathedral climb...It can be very busy on weekends and should be avoided at these times if you don't like crowds (and who does?)....
One of the things that makes Fun House a great beginner route is that the climbing is challenging but well-protected and not too exposed...It has tree cover much of the way and that makes folk feel more comfortable....

Pitch 1: Climb the corner past a pin...Stemming and using really nice holds.... Mantel and climb the next corner section break left slightly to a crack, a tricky move puts you on a very brief slab and on to a very nice ledge where you belay from trees....

Pitch two: From the ledge, easy climbing will put you on another nice ledge.... Climb the short corner to a few cracks, climb the cracks ranging from fingers to wide hands to yet another ledge....
Continue up cracks until you can break right to a ledge and belay at a cluster of trees....

From here, choose your way to the tree ledge...The normal finish from here is Upper Refuse (5.5) or you could do any number of other great routes at harder grades than 5.7....

Location 

On the lower, left slab to the right of the obvious arch of Three Birches (5.8).... Scramble up (40ft) to a ledge at the base of the right-facing corner that marks the first pitch of Fun House.... Be careful if you don't rope up, there are a few ways to get up there and you don't want to fall from any of them....

Protection 

Normal rack to #3 cam.... Long slings are useful for slinging trees....


Photos of Fun House Slideshow Add Photo
Christa stemming out the first pitch.
Christa stemming out the first pitch.
Preparing to clip the pin before the first ledge o...
Preparing to clip the pin before the first ledge o...
Unknown climber spread-eagled on the crux dihedral...
Unknown climber spread-eagled on the crux dihedral...
Matt and Christa somewhere below me on Funhouse.
Matt and Christa somewhere below me on Funhouse.
Mike Garrity approaching the first belay of Fun Ho...
Mike Garrity approaching the first belay of Fun Ho...
Unknown climber on the moves leading up to the bul...
Unknown climber on the moves leading up to the bul...
Unknown climbers on Funhouse.  The leader is just ...
Unknown climbers on Funhouse. The leader is just ...
Finishing up the initial corner.
Finishing up the initial corner.

Comments on Fun House Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2014
By Todd Harris
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 21, 2009

Climbed this route 08/2008. Solid 5.7. The first dihedral can spook a beginner leader due to the vertical nature of the rock. About 20 feet up the first dihedral, a perfectly placed pin allows for a nice quickdraw for additional security. The pin is solid. Looks like it's been there for years. While the dihedral has a slight overhang feeling to it in the middle (near the pin), the holds are perfectly situated to allow for ladder-like movement up the rock. Great climbing. It's my favorite 5.7 in the northeast. Get there early on the weekend. As soon as you finish the first dihedral, the climbing starts to get more slabby with good and varied holds.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 27, 2009

The 2nd pitch crux feels a good touch harder to me, now that the tree root no longer offers a Samsonite(TM) jug past the bulging hand/fist section.

In contrast to the above comment: *don't* get there early, that's when everyone else gets there. Head up well past noon: it'll be shady, and hopefully the crowds will have dispersed.
By cjdrover
From: Somerville, MA
Aug 2, 2009

Todd is right - the pin is very solid. A new partner and I did this route 7/25/09 - I slipped of some nasty oozing slime while placing a piece higher up and took a surprise whipper onto the pin. So much for warming up on an easier route...
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I have always loved this route, it was my first 5.7 lead back in the early 80's so I have fond memories. I find it is a great climb to take with less experienced climbers as there is little exposure and big ledges to chill on. It is a blocky route and could easily snap ankles on any part of the climb at any given moment, so early leaders should stay focused when making the moves up...particularly on the second pitch (pooh link-up which most parties do). Still, they are fun moves, it protects well and offers one of the few easier ascents up the lower left wall.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 14, 2012

Just climbed it yesterday (first rock climb of the year), and it was nice and dry where others were still quite wet from the winter thaw. Havnt been on this since summer of 2,000. The pin was the first pro for me (I think it was only about ten feet from where I started), and I backed it up with a nut and from there, pushed through to the ledge. There is definitely room for more gear above the pin, but the stances are less solid. After, we did Upper-Refuse (a classic combo), but it was tricky to get onto becauce of the big bleeding ice column that looked ready to colapse.
By Barrett Stetson
Aug 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route, protects plenty and especially where you need it. The start of the first pitch was a bit damp/slimy when we were there too, guessing it doesn't dry out as quickly as the rest of the route. Probably a good idea to anchor your belayer before starting P1, a bad slip on some dampness before your first piece could take you both for an unpleasant ride.
By Ian Dibbs
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

There is a trail which runs along the base of the cliff underneath the route where you can look up through the trees and confirm the starting location which is shown in pictures 3 and 5. Getting to the base from the trail (40 feet up),can be slippery business after a rain, spacious area at base of climb when you get up to it.
By Eric Embree
From: Wheaton, Illinois
Sep 10, 2012

Havn't done this route yet, but can someone tell me how tall in feet this route is?
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 10, 2012

Eric, the first pitch is about 80', and the second maybe 100'.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 10, 2012

You can make it to the tree ledge with a 60m , but i wouldn't..too much drag.
By Ryan Nelling
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Brown's First is NOT a good route to warm-up on while waiting for the crowds to thin out on Funhouse..

Easy, fun, rad climb!
By Russ Keane
Sep 17, 2013

So much fun!! What a great climb! The first pitch has two dicey issues for the leader: The dihedral, because it's a bit awkward and cramped/overhangy at the middle (thankfully clipping the pin makes you feel safe to pull up to the top) and then the bulge above that dihedral is a rather interesting sequence of moves, with thin protection. It's an odd hand sequence, and you are slightly run-out at that point on sort of a nothing nut at the crux, but you have to just kind of claw your way up to a gigantic juggy hold that saves your butt.. Then you are pretty much at a huge ledge to belay. It's "wicked fun". Very doable in spite of my description about clawing and grinding. It's a great 5.7 test that you will enjoy. Looking upwards, the second pitch is just plain old fantastic, with easy/emjoyable crakcks and ledges, all with good protection. The rock is incredible dry and frictiony, and I found the second pitch to be a piece of cake, albeit fun, 5.7 or perhaps even 5.6-ish. Good stuff.
By Charlie Kelly
Nov 1, 2013

If you like climbing perfect hand crack pitch 2 will throw a big smile on your face.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

Just a tiny clarification. As written, the description describes the first pitch of Funhouse (to the big ledge) and then the second Pitch of Pooh (up the obvious crack). This is the way most people do the route, and they think they're on Funhouse all the way (and that's totally fine). However, the true second pitch of Funhouse is not to be missed! From the nice comfy ledge atop P.1, start 10 feet left of the hand crack (Pooh), surmount a tricky little bulge (.7) to a tree, scoot left then up and back right, and then climb a beautiful little 25' face that goes straight up to the red pine tree at the top at 5.6. The moves are great and the gear excellent. It's a nice little pitch in it's own right, and an easy and polite way to pass people gummed up on the second pitch of Pooh (which they think is Funhouse, remember, lol). Also, you can reach this same little face from Three Birches---another seldom done and awesome combo (see my comments for Three Birches). And, just to be nit-picky, the locals write Funhouse as one word (the winters are long here, not much else to do but misspell stuff.)