This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Cathedral Spires Area page.
BETA PHOTO
Description
This is the pitch leading from the top of the Center Route to the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. Caution should be exercised with the pins and bolts.
Climb to the top of the third pitch of the Center Route and belay at a bolted anchor below a line of two pitons and about 6 or 7 bolts leading straight up to the summit.
Start off with a tricky move to the left of the anchor and hand traverse back right along a shallow crack to reach the 1st of two pitons. Falling before the first pin or even onto the second could result in a bad ledge fall. There were three pins before the 1st bolt, but one pulled out while my second was following the route, so now you may have to place a small wire or Alien where the 1st pin used to be. The second pin sticks out about 1/2" the third pin looks solid.
Once you reach the 1st bolt, continue up very steep rock via small but positive edges. The crux comes at the 2nd bolt and after the crux the bolts become a bit more spaced out as the climbing eases off to 5.10.
Belay from a bolt anchor on the summit.
Protection
Bring about 10 quick draws and some small wires or Aliens to get you to the first pin.
I agree that the pins are sketchy. But you can lead this quite safely, if you accept that a fall might land on the huge ledge. It's actually not very far down to the ledge. It would be considered a pretty good landing by most bouldering standards. Obviously, if you've got bad ankles or something, it's not a good thing. But if you think about it and are prepared, a fall doesn't seem that harsh. I found the spacey face climbing above more stimulating. All in all, great pitch.
I was totally honored when Ken Trout invited me to have a stab at freeing his new line. Ken and Kirk Miller had hooked and drilled the first two bolts on aid. That was a great start and it made the rest of the pitch sporting but safe. I free climbed up to their high point and then went for the top putting in two more 1/4" bolts with a hammer and hand drill from small and very steep stances. From that point, it was moderate slab climbing and I could have easily cruised to the top. I thought that since the line was Ken's vision, he should be the one to top out. I lowered off my high point this allowed Ken to top out first. It was truly,the effort of three friends, having fun, while doing a first ascent, that topped out on one of the most dramatic summits in the Platte. Hence the name "Class Act".
By Allen Hill From: Glenelk, Colorado Apr 10, 2007
Cynical Pinnacle
RSS Feed
