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Clovis Hunter S 
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Erectus S 
Evolution S 
Hominid S 
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 
Intelligent Design S 
Lucy S 
Mastodont S 
Meanderthal S 
Native Rituals S 
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Neanderthal S 
Quest for Fire S 
Sapien S 
Survival of the Fittest S 
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone) S 
Voyage of the Beagle S 

Clovis Hunter 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: A. Miller, R. Bradshaw, C. Clark 03
Page Views: 1,670
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on May 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Ed moves past the crux roof & gets ready for the t...

Description 

Start on broken rock that is harder than it looks, reach good holds and set up for the small roof and overhang. Original finish heads right with technical face climbing. A new alternate finish heads straight and pulls the next roof. Both finishes are supposed to be the same grade.

Edit: After some additional cleaning and holds breaking, this line is now considered 12b, perhaps even on the stiff side.

Location 

Right side of cave, Starts to the right of Sapien, and to the left of 2 5.13's that share the same start.

Protection 

Bolts to Chain Anchors


Photos of Clovis Hunter Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing through the upper roof of the direct finish. December 2012.
Climbing through the upper roof of the direct fini...
Amy in some seriously sunset-y light on "Clovis Hunter."  Photo by Peter Steadman.
Amy in some seriously sunset-y light on "Clovis Hu...
Torstin pulling on the crux holds.
Torstin pulling on the crux holds.
Jenna making the 4th clip before all the movement and popping of the bolt.
Jenna making the 4th clip before all the movement ...
Above the route's crux but still in the thick of it. January 2012.
Above the route's crux but still in the thick of i...
Jenna making big moves (hey they are all big when you are under 5 feet, right) through the steep bit.
Jenna making big moves (hey they are all big when ...
Heath setting up to head into the crux of the route.
Heath setting up to head into the crux of the rout...
Cranking past the crux.
Cranking past the crux.

Comments on Clovis Hunter Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 6, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is my favorite of the routes I've done in the cave. I thought it was much better than Cro Magnet-man, but I tend to prefer less-steep routes. The rock is excellent through the steeps, with good (but not too good) rests and nice movement.

Beware that around the 3rd or 4th bolt there is a bolt to the right in no-mand's land between this route and Native Rituals that could easily lead you off route. Basically CH trends up and right, and then abruptly heads back left just at the moment this bolt comes into view, so its easy to be mislead. Apparently this bolt was intended for what surely would have been an awesome link-up involving 28 inches of new climbing.

I climbed the original finish. I've done the upper roof before as part of NR, and it seems from what I recall that adding this finish would make the route more difficult. You can get a no-hands rest just below the roof, but turning that upper roof is pretty hard. Do-able with a 50m rope.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 2, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

As of May 1 the 4th bolt is missing on Clovis Hunter. This makes the route a definite ground fall if you fall off the crux. Hopefully it will get replaced soon as this is one of finest 12s in Diablo. I'm not sure how or why the bolt is gone. I'm not sure when I'll be back so hopefully one of the locals with a drill will fix the situation.
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
May 2, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Perhaps the block it was bolted to fell off?
By Aaron Miller
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The bolt has been temporarily replaced and tested to be sound. We are currently researching why the bolt is missing and how. We may choose to move the bolt again to a less vertical (roof type) position as the hard Diablo basalt does not favor these vertical bolt placements due to the lack of rock deformation from the mechanical expansion pressures of the bolt itself.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Adding the finish of Native to this route does not make it any harder because of the no hands rest, though it does add another spot at which one could pitch especially if Clovis is hard for you in the first place. It is a more asthetic and direct finish to a great route.
By Aaron Miller
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Adding to the refreshing excitement of this climb, the dihedral section directly following the first bulgy crux was cleaned (read...removed) on 4-5-09 to reveal a stunning section of slightly trickier face climbing and stemming. This makes the crux a bit more sustained and technical as well as cleaner and more aesthetic than it was (and it was pretty stellar to begin with) but no more than a letter grade difficult. Should justify the 12b rating and a proposed 5th star of quality.

Enjoy.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Did this one again today, it does seem harder now that there is no rest immediately after the steep crux. I'm not sure the "cleaning" has made this route better but it is now more sustained and consistent through the first half, still the best route in the cave, 12b seems fair.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Nov 24, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really neat route with lots of variety and interesting movement. Seemed noticeably harder than Lucy or Cro Magnon, so I'm more inclined toward 5.12b. The direct finish through the upper roof is really wild and fun and I definitely recommend that over the anti-climactic original finish. As Lee said, the direct finish doesn't change the rating because its easier than the crux moves down lower, but it's pretty exciting nonetheless.