The Rubberfat Syndrome 

FA:  John Bachar, Mari Gingery, John Yablonski, 1979 Type:  TR Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 88 page views Submitted By: Will S on Jan 19, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Will negotiating the "pod" before the crux, while ...

Description 

This route is a neglected gem that rarely gets done. The line is a straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack. Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10' level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting in line for this one.

Location 

About 80' right of the start of Illusion Dweller and immediately right of the bolted start of Chameleon. Tops out just right of the topout for Illusion Dweller. Walk off climber's right down the south shoulder of the formation.

Protection 

Toprope. Take a separate rope to rig the TR, the anchor will be way back from the edge and takes 3" to 5".