Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,167 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The crux is near the top at the final chimney section. Some of the rock is loose and you will pour pebbles out of the chimney on your way up. Also, there is a large flake in the chimney about 2/3 of the way up that is expanding and could get ripped out. Watch out for that. It's near the section where everything sounds hollow and you pray you don't fall on your gear.

This end of Sentinel is a bit chossy. Illusion Dweller end is by far much better.

Location

Starts at the left side of the West face of Sentinel (Illusion Dweller side). Climbs the obvious chimney straight up. Located to the right of the bolted (2 low face bolts) 5.12 climb.

Protection

Pro to 4.5". No anchors at the top, but several cracks to build one in OR you can place some directionals up high and trot over to the anchors on the climb next to it (Great White Buffalo).

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
An adventurous outing for the 5.7 leader. Demands a bit of creativity. Be mindful of ropedrag and a bit of loose rock. Anchor takes finger sized cams, nuts, #3 camalot. Never a line for this one, and despite the title, not really that dirty with just a touch of grain. For a leader at/near their limit, rack fingers to as big as you have (a 6 friend wouldn't go unused) and maybe double up on the .75-3 camalot sizes. Apr 13, 2009
Derek Field
California
  5.8
Derek Field   California
  5.8
Awkward climbing on this one. Right off the ground feels every bit of 5.7, and gets harder at the top.

Variation: "Careless Caretaker" (less grovelly, more exposed/photogenic) - Avoids the ghastly flared offwidth at the very top of the route by switchbacking on a shallow zigzag crack system. Step out of the hollows to a decent ledge on the right. Traverse a little further out right on a crimp rail, then cut back left on a higher crimp rail. Both of these are shallow cracks that will take mid-sized cams. Exit by short vertical .75/1 crack before stepping left to normal top anchor.

Jan 17, 2017