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Routes in The Sentinel - West Face

Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not for Loan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where Janitors Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Mayville, Bob Gaines 1993
Page Views: 332 total, 7/month
Shared By: john durr on Jan 21, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Is it better to lead or follow traversing routes?

This route starts far past Illusion Dweller across from Bikini-Whale.

Make an approach through a thicket to a left arching flake with a hand crack, mantle a cool block and go left past 3 closely spaced bolts. Gain a fantastic horizontal rail and traverse left past a couple more bolts to a bolted belay/rap anchor.

This is the first pitch of the six pitch route New Latitude 5.12a by the same hard man team.

Location

Sentinel West Face, a ways right of Rubberfat. Go to Bikini Whale, turn around and face the Sentinel.

Protection

Draws and a handful of TCU's in the finger to thin finger size. A large cam could work to protect the move onto the block if needed but a small cam goes just a little lower.

Photos

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toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
FA;...Todd Gordon, Jim Angione...(we couldn't free the crux move)....FFA; Mayville/Gaines...... Jan 22, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
feel free to move the bolt.....oopsie if it's in the wrong place;..I'm totally OK w/a move!.......(It's a cool route..). Jan 22, 2014