Avg: 3.4 from 20 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Roy Naasz and Chris Wegener, February 1970 (1st pitch only); FFA: John Bachar 1977(entire route)|
|Page Views:||4,118 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Jul 8, 2002|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P1, 5.10 A0 or 5.11 PG) Start right at some yucca plants and climb the steep crack/seam past three bolts and three fixed heads until possible to traverse left to a bolted anchor. It is possible to rap from here (60 meter rope works best), but there is more fun ahead...
P2, 5.11b R) From the belay make some hard moves with so-so pro up and slightly right then back left to reach a hand crack perched at the lip of the previously mentioned roof. Once in the crack traverse left along the lip and up until you reach a vertical crack which leads to the top. Walk off to climber's right down slabs.
This is a true Josh classic that should be done by those comfortable at this grade, but be aware that the second pitch is heads-up. The first pitch (5.10 with aid or 5.11 free) is popular and often done without committing to the imposing second pitch.