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Routes in The Sentinel - West Face

Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Desert Song T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not for Loan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where Janitors Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Morgan and Tony Zeek, 1975. FFA: Gib Lewis, Charles Cole, December 1979
Page Views: 255 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Apr 15, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Scramble up a ramp just right of the start of "Where Eagles Dare" until you reach a crack system beginning over a roof. The rock is a little chossy here but greatly improves once you pull over the roof and start angling up the crack. After about twenty-five feet of crack climbing comparable in steepness and difficulty to that on "Illusion Dweller," you reach a 'V' in the crack system. The original line takes the right crack and makes a long traverse to the same belay as for "Desert Song." Another option is to take the left crack straight up to a ledge, traverse right about six feet to a bolt, and make one or two face moves (.10a) in order to reach a set of anchors on "Where Eagles Dare."

A decent alternative to "Illusion Dweller" if that route is busy.


On the West Face of The Sentinel, right of "Where Eagles Dare." Rappel to descend.


nuts and cams to 2.5"

Probably a good idea to equalize a "nest" of gear before pulling over the roof as the rock isn't great here and it's a ways to the ground.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Randy, is this FA info correct? I thought this was a Charles Cole route. Feb 23, 2007
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Did this one today, 2/24/07, and man... it is sort of a junker, but in a good way. The rock is loose, grainy, and the features are not very inspiring.... but I liked it. Heading up to the Where Eagles Dare anchors is the way to go... clip two very sketch 1/4" bolts as you move up and right... then do a short boulder problem on the face to gain another crappy bolt.... then clip the fresh anchor. You can rap from here with a 50m rope. Feb 24, 2007
Morgan and Zeek did the FA (with aid -- those guys never did things free); Gib Lewis and CC3 did the FFA, 12/79. Feb 24, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Thanks Randy, I was just about to email Charles when I saw your reply. I always figured it was a CCIII route because of the name "not for loan" which he would mark on his gear. Russ & I did the route today, it's been on my list for some time. Now it's off the list and unlikely I"ll go back. It's not that it's technically hard -just junk. Feb 25, 2007

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