Where Eagles Dare
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.01305, -116.17126 |
| FA: | Kevin Powell & Dan Ahlborn, January 1976, FFA: (1st pitch): John Long, December 1979 FA: (2nd pitch): Jonny Woodward, April 1984 |
| Page Views: | 3,259 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Located on the West face of the Sentinel, this is near the left side of the face and 10' right of a right leaning chimney system.
P1) Boulder up a thin crack/lieback (crux) to start (it may be easier to climb high and skip the pro on this section) which widens and starts to curve right. Near the top of this crack it peters out and difficult face moves past a bolt lead to a bolted anchor in a dish. It is possible to rap off here, but the climb continues.
P2) From the belay climb right then up past three bolts until under a large roof. Pull the roof and continue up the crack as it eases in difficulty and ends on the top.
A walk off is located to the climber's right, down slabs until one reaches the edge of the rock, after which one can go left (east) around the entire formation or right (west) downclimbing through a corridor past the climb Bikini Whale.
This is yet another excellent route on an excellent formation. The first pitch alone is worth doing with some nice moves straight away and a surprise for the finish, but the second pitch is also worthy and together they make another route that should not be missed.



1 Comment