Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Mayville, Paul Borne
Page Views: 1,204 total · 13/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 16, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is a punishing example of 'real' 5.11. Begins with a reach move and a mantle to a bolt, followed by a slab with a bit of grain on it. A nice crack then leads up and right. The climbing past the next two bolts provides a fairly difficult thin crux and a committing and somewhat scary traverse into The Chameleon. Run it out a bit more, then finally place some funky but decent cams in a flaring seam and continue up The Chameleon. Better gear soon becomes more abundant. The flared, grainy crack that guards the end of The Chameleon provides another burly and somewhat heady crux, especially towards the end, but the fall is pretty clean and there is good protection. Finish up via the crux of Illusion Dweller.

Location

To the right of Illusion Dweller, locate the first bolt about 15-20 feet up, followed by a crack that diagonals its way up to two more bolts. Rappel with a 60m rope only after the gear has been cleaned. A 70m is much more convenient and allows an easy toprope setup via Illusion Dweller.

Protection

Three bolts (formerly scary old 1/4"; now they look brand new!) and gear to 3 inches. A double set of cams is a good idea, perhaps even with triples in the .4-.75 camalot range. Finishes at the Illusion Dweller anchor. First bolt is 15-20 feet off the deck and the rock quality at the start probably warrants a stick clip or a good dash of boldness.

Photos