Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||(TR) John Bachar & Mike Lechlinksi, December 1979, FL: Dave Mayville & Paul Borne, 1989|
|Page Views:||4,109 total · 25/month|
|Shared By:||Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
This amazing line takes the second line of bolts off the ground to the right of Illusion Dweller. Tricky and engaging face climbing past four bolts constitutes what might be the technical crux, but the final traverse left to join Illusion Dweller is a dicey, burly flared crack that provides a nasty surprise that might be just as hard. I recall that someone sandbagged me badly by telling me that the final crack was .10+ before I led it, so it's at least harder than that. Shares the Illusion Dweller rappel anchor. Someone must follow the climb to clean it. Descend as for Illusion Dweller with at least a 60m rope, 70m is probably better.
Bolts and gear to 2 inches, including small to medium cams although larger gear may possibly work. A second excursion through the final traverse via the neighboring Centipede during which I punted repeatedly out of the last hard moves before Illusion Dweller has convinced me that the gear is all there, but make sure to save some .75,1 and 2 inch (green, red and gold C4 size) pieces for it. When I led it, I took along a woefully slim rack of widgets that left me no gear between the beginning of the easier runout before the traverse and the Illusion Dweller roof, the terror of which I still remember vividly. Some shoulder length slings in a couple of spots might be useful to reduce drag from the traverse.