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Routes in The Sentinel - West Face

Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not for Loan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where Janitors Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar & Mike Lechlinksi, December 1979, FL: Dave Mayville & Paul Borne, 1989
Page Views: 2,947 total, 25/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Feb 10, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This amazing line takes the second line of bolts off the ground to the right of Illusion Dweller (the first being old 1/4 inch bolts from an .11d). Tricky and challenging face climbing past five bolts constitutes the technical crux, while the 'redpoint' crux is 30 feet of gritty, flared crack that arches left to join Illusion Dweller before its crux. Shares the Illusion Dweller rappel anchor. Someone must follow to clean; descend as for Illusion Dweller WITH AT LEAST A 60M ROPE.

Location

Approach as for Illusion Dweller; The Chameleon is about 35-40 feet to the right and starts from the ground.

Protection

Bolts and gear to 2 inches, including small to medium cams (although larger gear may possibly work). Long slings (especially under the Illusion Dweller roof) will be useful to reduce drag from the traverse.

Photos

Hands-down one of the BEST pitches of it's style/grade/length in the Park! Brilliant! There's really nothing "R" about it...PG-13 for sure (if you bring a double set of mixed-brand, techy cams from tips to 2" and good footwork, you will have options). Bitchin' techy sequences through the bolts and into the crack, then you eye up this arching traverse. With the above comments, there's no spoiler that there's some business near the end of said traverse so I'll just say that was the only section where I had to get scrappy with it...You'll definitely take a good whip but you should air out and there's bomber gear, just make sure you place it properly! If you held on through the traverse and had to de-pump in Illusion Dweller, then you did it right! By JT quality standards, except just past the first bolt, this rig's got totally killer rock! Hell yeah I'm sprayin' ... She's a gem! GET'R DONE! Feb 10, 2014
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
The final crack protects just fine with, I think it was, a red Camalot or two. I think when I first led this I simply didn't have the gear for the final section. I got near the end of that flared section, looked back right about 25' to my last piece and barely got through it. Exhilirating. Last year when I tried Centipede I whipped out of that flared section numerous times onto a good placement. I don't know where .10+ came from but it's not! The point here being, the gear is good at the end and decent if funky after the bolts. 'Safe' is relative here: I climbed this onsight and it was dicey for me with the gear I brought. I fully agree that lowering down it and sussing the gear would yield plenty of bomber placements. Jan 26, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
I agree with Muff and Drewsky. Very proud lead as the gear looks horrible/non-existent in that upper flaring crack, which felt .11'ish to me. Hats off to you who led this thing. Burly. I TR'd the Centipede and thought the shared flaring crack finish was the scariest part from a leading/protection perspective. As far as Josh H's, comment, I would love to follow you on this some time so I could see your gear beta! Mar 11, 2013
Josh Harding
Mariposa, Ca
 
Josh Harding   Mariposa, Ca
 
Great route, don't agree with "R" rating. Yes, I TRed first, as recommended by Muff. The climb protects easily. I got two bomber pieces in the "R" section and another 7 pieces of bomber gear in the crack portion. Safe great climb. Sep 29, 2012
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
I don't know what I was smoking when I led this one. I didn't protect the flared crack for 30 feet (and, of course, the sort of funky section after the bolts end) but after a less fruitful trip up the neighboring Centipede I know that it protects well until the last 10 feet. Obviously I didn't fall or I would have been in a bit of a quandary. The vagaries of youth, I say! Dec 20, 2011
Muff  
Albeit I attempted this on TR I would have to agree with Brad's statement. I only took one run on this route but was able to make the entire route clean until the "10+ flaring crack" this section is pump-tastic and requires a lot of brute strength. The lower section of this route which constitutes the technical crux is comprised of a stellar mix of power and techy balancy moves. The upper section with the 10+ crack is what I would consider the physical enduro crux. Definitely pre run this one on TR! Leading this route would be very proud as the gear is sparse and you would be looking at some serious air time. Amazing route overall. Jun 2, 2011
Brad G  
I got through both the crux and the R section and fell on the flaring 10+ crack. I found that section to be real sandbagged so just a heads up. Fortunately that section protects well with a Green-yellow offset alien and both a .75 and 2 camolot. Nov 29, 2010