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The Chameleon
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 3.5 from 17
votes
Routes in The Sentinel - West Face
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Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Centipede, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Medicine Man T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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New Latitude T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Not for Loan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sweep Walkers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Where Janitors Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01305, -116.17126 |
| FA: | (TR) John Bachar & Mike Lechlinksi, December 1979, FL: Dave Mayville & Paul Borne, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 5,236 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Feb 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This amazing line takes the second line of bolts off the ground to the right of Illusion Dweller (the first bolts are the Centipede) Tricky and engaging face climbing past four bolts constitutes what might be the technical crux, but the final traverse left to join Illusion Dweller is a dicey, burly flared crack that provides a nasty surprise that might be just as hard. Do the final crux moves of Illusion Dweller to reach that route's rappel anchor. Someone must follow this climb to clean it.
Descend as for Illusion Dweller, ideally with a 70m rope.
Location
Approach as for Illusion Dweller; The Chameleon is about 35-40 feet to the right and starts from the ground.
Protection
Bolts and gear to 2 inches, including small to medium cams, although larger gear may possibly work. The gear is all there, but make sure to save some .75, 1 and 2 inch (green, red and gold Camalots) pieces for the upper section. Some shoulder length slings in a couple of spots might be useful to reduce drag from the traverse.
6 Comments