Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: John Bachar, Mari Gingery, John Yablonski, 1979
Page Views: 2,005 total · 15/month
Shared By: Will S on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is a neglected gem. The line is a straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack. Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10' level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting in line for this one.

Location

About 80' right of the start of Illusion Dweller and immediately right of the bolted start of Chameleon. Tops out just right of the topout for Illusion Dweller. Walk off climber's right down the south shoulder of the formation.

Protection

Toprope. Take a separate rope to rig the TR, the anchor will be way back from the edge and takes 3" to 5".

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
FA: John Bachar, late 70's? Jan 20, 2008
The Shocker  
 
Did this route in 2005 to avoid the queue on Illusion D. No gear until after the crux. Dave Mayville watched and speculated it was the first lead of the route. Onsight mandatory. Oct 2, 2013