Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: John Bachar, Mari Gingery, John Yablonski, 1979
Page Views: 2,083 total · 15/month
Shared By: Will S on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is a neglected gem. The line is a straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack. Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10' level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting in line for this one.

Location

About 80' right of the start of Illusion Dweller and immediately right of the bolted start of Chameleon. Tops out just right of the topout for Illusion Dweller. Walk off climber's right down the south shoulder of the formation.

Protection

Toprope. Take a separate rope to rig the TR, the anchor will be way back from the edge and takes 3" to 5".

Photos