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Routes in The Sentinel - West Face

Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not for Loan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where Janitors Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: TR, 100 ft
FA: John Bachar, Mari Gingery, John Yablonski, 1979
Page Views: 1,809 total, 15/month
Shared By: Will S on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is a neglected gem. The line is a straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack. Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10' level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting in line for this one.

Location

About 80' right of the start of Illusion Dweller and immediately right of the bolted start of Chameleon. Tops out just right of the topout for Illusion Dweller. Walk off climber's right down the south shoulder of the formation.

Protection

Toprope. Take a separate rope to rig the TR, the anchor will be way back from the edge and takes 3" to 5".

Photos

The Shocker  
 
Did this route in 2005 to avoid the queue on Illusion D. No gear until after the crux. Dave Mayville watched and speculated it was the first lead of the route. Onsight mandatory. Oct 2, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
FA: John Bachar, late 70's? Jan 20, 2008