Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Sentinel - West Face

Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Not for Loan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Where Janitors Dare T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Gordon & Jim Murray 2/86 (1st pitch only), FFA of 1st pitch and 2nd pitch: Dave Mayville and Paul Borne 1990
Page Views: 1,871 total, 13/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This fantastic route is right of the route Where Eagles Dare (5.11+). The first pitch follows a bolt protected right traversing 5.12- crack/seam which eventually swings up to a bolted belay (shared with Desert Song). Pitch two exits from the belay right a few feet then heads up the former aid route now rated 5.12c, to the top for another bolted anchor.

Protection

Bolts,and standard rack for the second pitch (which also has bolts)
Drewsky  
The second pitch is listed in the new Miramontes guide as .11b. I thought it would be a lark to link Desert Song P1 into it. Turns out, it is an awesome 180 foot pitch but no wonder it felt hard! Dec 25, 2012
Randy
 
Randy  
 
The first pitch is excellent (haven't done the 2nd). Originally, the first pitch was a bit easier (12a), but a foothold broke off, now 12b. Apr 4, 2006
I appreciate the manner in which the first pitch (solid at 12b) of this route was bolted. You have to make difficult crux moves a considerable distance from the bolts; no faking it! Tread lightly on the loose flake between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Apr 4, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The first pitch was originally done as an aid climb called "Sacred Bear" (A3+) which had no bolts but sported a couple of fixed rurps at the start and finish.

The first pitch (5.12b) has nine bolts and can be done as a sport route, although you may wish a medium cam to get to the high first bolt; the second pitch (5.12c) has five bolts and requires some gear. Apr 3, 2006