|South and East Faces
Bon Homme Variation
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Bon Homme Variation is a separate and unique climb from Bon Homme. It shares only the start. Follow the ramp to the area of the old ladder. Bon Homme is about four cracks to the left of the ladder.
Pitch 1: Climb the start of the wide Bon Homme crack. Climb past a chockstone, and then look for a traverse to the left. Face climb across the column when obvious, and get into the next crack over. Then follow this crack system (double cracks) up to a huge ledge. When I did this, I climbed this first pitch as two separate pitches. I belayed somewhere after the traverse.
Pitch 2: Climb an easier crack (5.5) to the meadows. This requires most of a rope-length. This is the left of the two available cracks on this ledge.
The offwidth start to BHV with the traverse ledge ...
My friend Gary getting ready to make the traverse ...
Placing gear deep inside on the approach to the tr...
Peering around the corner. Perhaps this is the cor...
After doing the high traverse. If you're planning ...
Chuck low down on the sustained P2.
Chuck on the recommended right hand variation to P...
Frank Sanders Leading the 1st LONG Pitch of Bon Ha...
Lindsey Weissner (CupcakeTrad) Enjoying the Excell...
There was a little surprise waiting for me in the ...
Jon, before the traverse
|Comments on Bon Homme Variation
|By Graham Rogers|
May 29, 2003
This climb was my first at the tower, and was hugely satisfying. The "blind" traverse around the arete into the crack was spectacular and not an easy give away...just find the key foothold, or make the route 5.10 - like my second. After 'round the well-protected corner crux, the route felt almost 5.8 with your choice of gear and some rests. It's a pretty long pitch which I recall having mostly wide finger- to hand-size gear, requiring a little conservation. On the wide section at the bottom, a #4.5 camalot would've been calming. I placed and slid up my #4 that ended up nearly tipped out. Didn't see too many other obvious options, and it stays wide and balancey for a while. I knew this was going to be a good weekend after this climb! I told the tourists at the bottom I was a real-live mountain climber now!
|By John Gunnels|
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 8, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Another route that should be done more often... GREAT MOVES!!!
|By Frank Sanders|
Nov 15, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Surely one of the CLASSIC 5.8's on this Tower!!!
I highly endorse doing the 2nd pitch in the Right Hand Crack. It might be a bit harder than the Left Hand Alternative, but it is all solid rock, straight forward and very protectable.
The Left Alternative might be technically easier, but it is awkward, with some loose rock and the protection leaves something to be desired in numerous spots.
USER BEWARE on the left hand crack.
|By denise 911|
From: fort collins, co
Jul 14, 2009
1st pitch - rack your gear on your left side.
Very fun climb. I took the left crack on the 2nd pitch - while much easier than the first pitch with better rests - I would say it is still above a 5.5 (have seen it rated as 5.7 in a couple places - I would say maybe 5.6/light 5.7?). Found good placements with mostly larger gear on this pitch.
(will have to try the right crack next time - will definitely climb this route again)
|By Nate Flink|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 21, 2012
We were able to rappel from the top of Bon Homme Variation route with a single 70 meter rope in 3 rappels using the bomber bolted anchors. It was really nice not having to trail a separate 60 m rope.
Knot your ends.