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MOUNTAINEERING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
There is another well developed limestone crag above the town of Canal Flats; Mount Sabine
Guides with the Icefall Brook Lodge have developed a crag called Tivoli.
Last, but not least, of my examples is the long bolted 5.7 on the Takakkaw Falls Wall.
WATERFALL ICE IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES OF BRITISH COLUMBIA
Back in the 1970's, the first ascent of Takakkaw Falls was big news (Yoho NP). Nearby, there are commonly climbed frozen waterfalls above the town of Field, BC. Above Highway 93, in Kootenay National Park are the famous pillars found on the Stanley Headwall. The ice flow draped gorge of Icefall Brook might be as good or better than anything else. However, using helicopters is necessary to get there in winter.
The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies, by Bill Corbet, 2009. This book has the most recent information for the standard routes for the biggest mountains in the Canadian Rockies.
Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, by Sean M Dougherty, 1991. This book has the basics for the serious climber's tick list, including the most notable technical climbs on the biggest faces on the high peaks. The book does not have good maps but give the specific , so use the suggestions make a list of all the maps Dougherty suggests for your tick list, and then order the maps from Canada's Geologic Survey.
There is always a Bow Valley Rock book out to guide one to the vast selection of sport routes in Alberta.
The most current comprehensive climbing guide the Canadian Rockies is now old and out of print. For those who want information on peaks not found in the selected climbs book, try finding The Rocky Mountains of Canada North & The Rocky Mountains of Canada South, by William L Putnam & Robert Kruszyna, AAC & ACC, 1921 - 1985. A few good summits, not found in the Dougherty book, are described in the old guide. For example, Mount Saskatchewan, near the Columbia Icefield, or peaks north of Mount Robson, like Mount Ida. The American Alpine Club Library has multiple copies in Golden, Colorado. I'm pretty certain the Alpine Club of Canada has it in the libraries at either the Canmore Clubhouse or Lake Louise Mountaineering Center.
Note that many of the Canadian Rockies peaks are located in Alberta, not British Columbia. If you cannot find a peak you are looking for, it may be located on the Alberta page.
Sorry! I can't access the text below this note. Otherwise, I would delete the Mtn of BC text below and fix any mistakes on the highest peaks list.
The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides generously shares mountain condition reports with us all.
Highest Peaks of the Canadian Rockies
English units, instead of metric, makes a nicer cut for defining major peaks. There are 54 summits above 11,000 feet. British Columbia makes a good showing in the top ten:`
The Mountain Ranges of British Columbia
The North American Cordillera attains maximum width in British Columbia. For nearly a century, the Canadian Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal, and geographic scientists have divided British Columbia's copious mountains into three big ranges; the Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mountains ,and Coast Range. Each range has a characteristic geology that supports this overarching classification.
17 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in BC's Canadian Rockies
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for BC's Canadian Rockies:
Bush River to East Face Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 8000' Columbia Icefields : Mount Columbia (3,747m)
West Ridge (Standard Route) 3rd 1- 1 I M 1a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, 5700' Mount Robson Provincial Par... : Mount Whitehorn (3,395m)
Standard Route 4th 1 2 I M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3000' Monkman & Kakwa Provincial ... : Mount Ida (3,180m)
Southwest Face Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c Steep Snow R Trad, Snow, Alpine, 8000' Mount Assiniboine Provincia... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
South Face/Schwartz Ledges Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c AI2-3 Steep Snow X Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 10000' Mount Robson Provincial Par... : Mount Robson
Kain Face Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c AI3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine, 20 pitches, 9000' Mount Robson Provincial Par... : Mount Robson
South Glacier/South Face Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 8000' Columbia Icefields : Mount Bryce (3,507m)
North Face 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a AI2-3 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 2000' Mount Assiniboine Provincia... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
North Ridge 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Mod. Snow PG13 Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2000' Mount Assiniboine Provincia... : Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
Northeast Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade IV Columbia Icefields : Mount Bryce (3,507m)
North Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b AI4 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7500' Columbia Icefields : Mount Bryce (3,507m)
Emperor Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b AI3 Steep Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, Grade V Mount Robson Provincial Par... : Mount Robson
Takakkaw Falls 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13 Trad, 12 pitches, 1260' Yoho National Park : Takakkaw Falls Area
Featured Route For BC's Canadian Rockies
Northeast Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Mod. Snow International : Canada : ... : Mount Bryce (3,507m)
INTRODUCTIONOne of the best ridge traverses in the Canadian Rockies. Outram's guide, Christian Kaufmann, was climbing at his limit and basically soloed the crux. The 1902 party approached up the Alexandria River to a camp at Cinema Lake. The central peak was bypassed to the south. APPROACH The Bush River Road begins near Donald, BC. Turn onto the Rice Brook Road at the 98 kilometer sign. Four kilometers of increasingly bad road lead to the decommissioning closure. Good 4w...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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