Avg: 4 from 6 votes
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 9000 ft (2727 m), 20 pitches|
|FA:||Conrad Kain & clients McCarthy & Foster, 1913|
|Page Views:||14,030 total · 110/month|
|Shared By:||Michael S. Catlett on Dec 29, 2010|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Remote climbing with low odds for success given the weather, snow conditions and logistics. Still once you get your shot, moderate to steep snow and ice climbing up the Kain Face and then moderate climbing up snow and ice faces and around gargoyles of ice leads to a large summit with a small summit bump.
If you think getting up is tough, getting down can be a job once the Kain Face softens and becomes very hazardous to downclimb. Be prepared to sit it out till the sun goes down and the freeze comes to stabilize the face. Do not underestimate the decent.
It is all worth it!
Take the time to climb Mount Resplendent before taking on the ice fall of the Resplendent/Robson glacier. This can be bypassed by climbing the ridge above the ice fall and working your way back to the glacier once you overcome the ice fall. It worked well coming down, with 4th and 5th class scrambling and a few raps, so I am sure it will work going up though there likely will be 5th class climbing for short sections.
The Patterson Couloir is another way to reach the Kain Face. The CAJ has reports of teams doing the couloir, but none summited. If avalanche hazard and bushy approach are not too bad, then this could be the fastest way up the mountain, sans choppers.