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Routes in Mount Robson

Emperor Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 Steep Snow
Kain Face 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow
Patterson Couloir T AI3 Steep Snow
Roof Glacier Hourglass By-Pass Couloir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI3 Steep Snow
South Face/Schwartz Ledges T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c AI2-3 Steep Snow X
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Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 4500 ft, Grade III
FA: Jay Wilson and Peter Cole - Aug 1981
Page Views: 122 total · 20/month
Shared By: Peter Cole on Mar 24, 2018
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Jay Wilson and I did this route a day after a bad close call on the approach to the Wishbone. I fell crossing the Great Couloir and was only able to self arrest after falling about 400ft. We retreated to the hut where the next day we took a line just right of the so called Hourglass Couloir on the right side of the Roof Glacier that lead eventually to the top of the Kain Face. We returned the same way.


Jay and I missed the key feature to this route, but in 1988 I returned with Dale Navish and we found the hidden gully that cuts thru the rock band and puts you on the the same steep snow slope that leads to the top of the Kain Face. Once again we returned the same way, although we waited for quite some time before starting down the sunlite slopes. We couldn't find the beautiful gully so ended up rapping the rock face itself. Not particularly difficult but we did chop a rope on the way down due to rockfall. I would think a flagged wand or two at the top of the gully would solve that problem.

I realize the mountain has changed alot since then so I don't know what the Roof Glacier situation is like or if approaching the Hourglass Couloir is as safe as it used to be.

After running past the initial ice fall above your heads near the hut, we turned uphill and easily got onto the neve of the Roof Glacier. From there we headed uphile until reaching the rockband where we connected with the 1981 line and found the hidden gully that makes for a really nice way to do this side of the mountain.

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Additional photos can be found at…


Ice screws and pickets


More About Roof Glacier Hourglass By-Pass Couloir