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Routes in Takakkaw Falls Area

High and Dry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sunburst and Snowblind T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Suspended in Gaffa T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Takakkaw Falls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Takakkaw Falls (winter) T WI4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, 800 ft, 3 pitches, Grade V
FA: FA: Jack Firth, Bugs McKeith, John Lauchlan, Rob Wood '74. FFA: Duncan Ferguson, Dave Wright '77.
Page Views: 182 total, 20/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Mar 13, 2017
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Remote and rarely climbed, Takakkaw Falls is a Rockies' classic. Due to the high volume of water flowing under the ice, however, ice conditions can be sketchy, be careful. Especially at the top where a horizontal ice shell must be crossed to reach the upper-most anchor. Falling through the shell would likely have dire consequences. Set your top anchor lower if there is any uncertainty. Follow the path of least resistance and the best ice, usually starting up the left side. Using 70m ropes, the route can be climbed in 4 ptches.

Good skiers/climbers can do the route car-to-car in a day, the rest of us will bivy at/near an open cook shelter another kilometer past the parking lot, There are some big critters that lurk in the shelter at night, so pack up your food!

Location

Takakkaw Falls is a 14 km ski up the Yoho Valley Road (closed in winter) from the parking area at the bottom of the hill, just east of Field.

Protection

An assortment of screws for pro and for building belays. Use v-threads to get down.
Kris Gorny

  WI4
Kris Gorny    
  WI4
Clip of climbing Takakkaw in March 2017. It was alive near the top.
youtube.com/watch?v=XFJ_pcu… Mar 18, 2017