Grassi Ridge

Grassi Ridge on Wiwaxy Peak starts off climbing a chimney/corner system for a couple pitches before gaining the main ridge. The remainder of the route continues up mostly good quality steeper rock sections separated by a ledge system here and there. The majority of the climbing is situated on and or near the ridge itself. There are a few spots were the rock isn’t quite as good. The crux pitch about 2/3 of the way up features steep face climbing on an exposed buttress protected by a couple of pins and a bolt. We expected to find no fixed anchors and were surprised to find most belays had a bolt or two. Some of the pitches including the crux pitch had a bolt. There were also some pins for protection here and there. The views of Lake O’Hara as you get higher and higher on the route are outstanding. To descend follow a couple of cairns heading down to the rappels. 4 or 5 raps get you to easy walking terrain. Follow climbers trail along the side of sub peak down to eventually merge back into tourist trail along Lake O'Hara. Follow signs back to the bus stop area.

From Campground:

Take the signed trail directly across the road from the campground. Follow it diagonally downward (south) to the stream, cross the stream on a small bridge, and continue heading upstream (south) for about 300m. Look for an obvious avalanche path on your left side (east). A faint climbers trail, usually marked with cairns, heads uphill into the avalanche path. 

From Lake O'Hara:

Cross the outlet stream of Lake O'Hara and turn left (north). Walk downstream (northward) approximately 400m, looking for an obvious avalanche path on your right side (east). Look for a faint climbers trail, usually marked with cairns, heading uphill into the avalanche path. 

The Climbers Path:

Follow the climbers path uphill (east, northeast) into the avalanche path, diagonal up leftward, as it weaves and zig-zags through the trees. The path is faint in places but mostly well marked with cairns. At times you need to somewhat bushwack through the scrubby avalanche path trees. As of July 2021, there is a windblown area a short distance up the climbers path. Its not a very wide area and you can pick up the path fairly easily on the other side by keeping your heading going in the same general direction. 

The path crosses a distinct gully in an open area at the base of a 30ft rock cliff band. This gully is typically filled with snow but is short (20ft wide) and easy to cross with approach shoes. Follow the base of the rock band left (northward), maybe 50ft, to a break where the path scrambles up right through the cliff band. Follow cairns, and the faint path as it switch backs upward through the cliff band taking the easiest line to scramble short steep sections upward toward the toe of the ridge. 

As you hike higher, the path makes a short leftward (north) traverse toward a fairly obvious and distinct tree with multiple trunks (4 trunks?). From here, switchback up right toward the base of the rock wall, heading towards the highest tree. Continue upward from the highest tree, along the base of the wall (little more scrambly and exposed) toward the ridge crest. The start of the route is marked by a single, shiny bolt near the base of a large chimney/corner system just back from the crest of the ridge. Small ledges at the base provide enough room for 2 climbers to gear up.         

Single rack of cams from 0.3-3" plus nuts, 60m rope. Bolted belays (or pins) if you stay on route. A few protection bolts here and there where you need them.