Guinness Gully

Ten years to the day after I first climbed this route (and subsequently added it to MP), I climbed it again on February 21, 2026. I’m fully updating this route entry for this classic moderate climb. Get after it!

Locate the pull-out parking area on the Field Service Road with a sign warning of avalanche danger. From there, walk back toward Field for a few minutes until you see a sign for Guinness Gully. Head straight uphill for 10 minutes, scramble an ice step, and set up a belay below pitch one. 

Pitch 1: WI4, 30m.

Sometimes thin, but quite thick in Feb 2016 and Feb 2026. Choose your line and power up to several belay options. You may use a tree belay on the left, or run it an additional 35m on hiking terrain to set up the belay below pitch two.

Pitch 2: WI4, 20m.

Climb a steep terrain on the left side of the curtain. This pitch starts steep, then eases off quickly. In February 2026, there was a WI3 option on the right side. Several belay options exist above off of trees. Hike uphill for 10 minutes. 

Pitch 3: WI4, 60m.

The money! This is an excellent, sustained pitch with three curtains to tackle. Generally the easiest line is on right. There is a nice bolted anchor out right - set a directional for your follower before you head over there. 

Descent: Walk off in the gully to climber’s right of the route if avalanche conditions permit. Alternately, rappel the route. 

Make your way to the Field Service Road as for the other "beer" climbs on Mt. Dennis. Park at the pullout and note the signage warning of avalanche danger. Hike back along the road a small distance to some flagging and make the short but steep hike up.

Ice screws adequate for a long pitch of WI4 and two 60+m ropes.