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Whitney Portal

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Beach, Right Side, The 
Beach, The 
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Premier Buttress 
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Solstice Celebration Wall 
Whale, The 
Whitney Portal Buttress 
Wrinkled Lady, The 

Whitney Portal Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 36.58651, -118.24075 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 51,235
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 23, 2006  with updates from Dale casler
Forecast:
This Afternoon

35° | 26°
Friday

38° | 27°
Saturday

38° | 27°
Sunday

39° | 27°
Monday

40° | 25°
Tuesday

39° | 28°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Description 

The Whitney Portal is home to many cragging routes as well as some longer, older Beckey routes. The sought-after climb is Bony Fingers, but there is supposedly quite a bit of development going on there in recent years. Unfortunately, comprehensive information is unavailable... I think.

Getting There 

Take Whitney Portal Road west from the town of Lone Pine, past Alabama Hills, and up into the mountains until it dead ends at the trailhead for Mt. Whitney. Pretty simple.

Current Weather 



Climbing Season



Weather station 14.9 miles from here

95 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',31],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',11],['5.10',49],['5.11',19],['5.12',13],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Whitney Portal

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Whitney Portal:
Ummagumma   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0     Trad, Aid, 2500'   The Wrinkled Lady
Beckey Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   El Segundo Buttress
Inknobvious Line   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   El Gaucho
Lizard King   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Beach
Banana Hammock   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Beach
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack")   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 520'   Premier Buttress
Sheltering Sky   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Candlelight Buttress
Ghostrider   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Nimbus   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Mountaineers Route   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   The Beach
No Country For Old Men   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Arc de Triomphe   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1200'   Parisian Buttress
Crystal Voyage   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   The Beach, Right Side
Bony Fingers   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   The Whale
Schrodinger's Cat   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 230'   The Beach, Right Side
Gangway   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   Whitney Portal Buttress
Killer Whale   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 215'   The Whale
Riptide   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   The Beach, Right Side
Green Gecko   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Candlelight Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Whitney Portal

Featured Route For Whitney Portal
Rock Climbing Photo: Gangway (5.12a or 5.11A A0)

Gangway 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Whitney Portal Buttress
Gangway is a new route on the buttress established by Peter Croft with some help from Marty Lewis. I haven't climbed the route but since Marty e-mailed me this beta I thought I would share it with every one.The first pitch is, according to Marty, the best start option for Ghostrider. 4 new bolts and a little bit of gear. Wandering face on good rock to a ledge with a belay.Not shown on the topo is the fourth pitch, which has bolts and gear to a two bolt anchor.* Also goes at 5.11a AO if not up ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Whitney Portal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Portal
The Portal
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitney Portal Store menu, Whitney Portal
Whitney Portal Store menu, Whitney Portal
Rock Climbing Photo: The Granite of Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
The Granite of Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain Range
Mountain Range
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerome latching the only good edge on the seam.
Jerome latching the only good edge on the seam.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the valley and Whitney Portal Road
View of the valley and Whitney Portal Road
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent Sartoris, Al Bartlett
First Ascent Sartoris, Al Bartlett
Rock Climbing Photo: ooohh ice bouldering at whitney portal!
ooohh ice bouldering at whitney portal!
Rock Climbing Photo: Russ climbing, "Stop me before I drill again&...
Russ climbing, "Stop me before I drill again&...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lone Pine Creek - June '05
Lone Pine Creek - June '05
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitney Portal Buttress, with the routes Sartoris ...
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal Buttress, with the routes Sartoris ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lone Pine Creek Cascades at Whitney Portal. Photo ...
Lone Pine Creek Cascades at Whitney Portal. Photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Whitney, above Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo...
Mt. Whitney, above Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo...
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent of Sartoris, WPB, Dave Blacck
First Ascent of Sartoris, WPB, Dave Blacck
Rock Climbing Photo: First Ascent Sartoris, Steve Eddy, middle face
First Ascent Sartoris, Steve Eddy, middle face
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Whitney Portal. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Thistle at Whitney Portal
Thistle at Whitney Portal
Rock Climbing Photo: Bob Harrington, Susan Peplow, Darla Harrington, Ru...
Bob Harrington, Susan Peplow, Darla Harrington, Ru...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Thomas attempting the top-out on the seam (...
Andrew Thomas attempting the top-out on the seam (...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lone Pine Creek Cascade. Photo by Blitzo.
Lone Pine Creek Cascade. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitney Portal
Whitney Portal
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Whitney on the right, Keeler Needle in the midd...
Mt Whitney on the right, Keeler Needle in the midd...
Rock Climbing Photo: Whitney cragging. Top of Beckey Route
Whitney cragging. Top of Beckey Route
Rock Climbing Photo: Knob-pullin' below Whitney Portal Buttress
Knob-pullin' below Whitney Portal Buttress

Show All 24 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Whitney Portal Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 17, 2014
By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Mar 6, 2007
The Whitney Portal Road leaves from the town of Lone Pine about 40 miles south of Big Pine. Head west from Big Pine if you want to go to the Palisades or Temple Crag.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Mar 7, 2007
Marty Lewis is coming out with a new guidebook entitled "Bishop Area Rock Climbs—The climbing Guide to the Eastern Sierra-South" which covers the Whitney Portal area. Coming out this Summer.

maximuspress.com/
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 7, 2007
"Marty Lewis is coming out with a new guidebook entitled "Bishop Area Rock Climbs—The climbing Guide to the Eastern Sierra-South" which covers the Whitney Portal area. Coming out this Summer."

Yeah LuLu, where's our guides? Less handyman, more publication!

......waiting

~Susan
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Sep 14, 2007
Looks like the guidebook is delayed to Winter 2007.
By Darrell Hensel
Dec 17, 2007
It's winter 2007. Hope to see that new guide soon, Marty. Lots of recent FA activity. I've seen the Portal proofs, it'll be a good guide.
By Darrell Hensel
Dec 18, 2007
For those interested in the Portal but concerned about those old 1/4" manky bolts: Thanks to ASCA support over 250 bolts have been replaced with stainless fatties in the past couple of years, and next year will see more replacement activity. And of course, everything new has bolts that are up to code. For information on which routes have been replaced:

safeclimbing.org/areas/califor...
(sorry, can't seem to get the thing to leave the ".htm" alone)

The list is fairly current as of this post, but still needs an update for Candlelight Buttress where all but a handful of bolts where replaced late in the year.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 11, 2008


New guide is ready to ship. Order your copy today at Maximus Press
By Tavis Ricksecker
Mar 25, 2009
Thanks to the ASCA, Johnny Woodward, Darrell Hensell, SP Parker, and everyone else who invested their time in rebolting this area. Thanks also to Peter Croft and Marty Lewis for putting together such a nice guide. Now I am psyched to go climb there.
By Mike Soucy
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 21, 2011
How late in the season can one reasonably expect to climb here?
By Darrell Hensel
Sep 21, 2011
Late October, early/mid November typically. If tripping to get there, planning anything later than that is getting risky. In light winters trips can even be managed year round if there is enough time between storms for melt.

A good share of the routes face south, and walls like The Goucho, Roadwork, and The Poolhall are lower so a little warmer and less of a problem if there is some snow. But it's 8,000' so by November it can get frigid when things go in the shade.

The other problem is that once big enough fall storms hit the road is closed (at least technically), also physically if there's enough snow - even if some walls do melt back out.

In summary, if you want to be reasonably comfortable, and have all walls accessible, plan on early November being the end of the good window. But, as mentioned it can still vary depending on the harshness of the particular years weather. Long answer to a simple question, I know.

fyi - if you're tripping through, it would be good to have the guide. Lot's of stuff in the guide that isn't posted here. Plus there's stuff that is too new for the guide also. Plenty to do. And the ASCA replacement effort has now done the majority of the routes - at all walls except perhaps the Portal Buttress where some of the longer routes haven't been replaced (slackers!).
By Tane Owens
From: Denver, CO
Aug 19, 2013
This area has a massive amount of unclimbed (or undocumented) pitches. The wall across from the beach only has one established route that I could find in the guidebook, but it looks like there are many different options for climbing. Also, just upstream from this wall looks like the potential for a fun and steep one pitch bolted/mixed crag. Is there any reason that none of this area has been climbed?
By dave wave
Oct 11, 2013
Anyone have any info on the OW near the bathroom in the portal campground??

I believe it's right near the last loop across from the biggest campsite(w/ the massive flat top boulder in the back ground).

It looks wicked...leans diagnal to the left, about 5 deg overhang, looks like it has a small ledge on the left 3/4 up the route. Has TR bolts.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 11, 2013
The OW is like 5.10 or 5.10+

Thread here: supertopo.com/climbing/thread....

Here are some photos stolen from Big Bob Bolton and Robs Muir:


Rock Climbing Photo: OW in campground
OW in campground




Rock Climbing Photo: OW in campground
OW in campground
By dave wave
Oct 11, 2013
Thanks for the info Russ....looks like a pretty classy line.
By Jay Schenk
Oct 17, 2014
looking for partner to climb in whitney portal october through november. 5.10, 5.11. trad is rad. let me know