Type: Trad, Alpine, 950 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gary Slate & Errett Allen 04/1987
Page Views: 232 total · 14/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jul 25, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Portal Road Closure Details

Description

A high quality, varied line up the left side of the buttress. Unlike most of the other routes on the formation, this one features a fair amount of crack climbing and is attainable for non-slab masters. Some friends have repeated this line multiple times and raved about it. I agree about its classic status. My partner hates any amount of slab or chimney climbing (and hiking!), so I'm sure he'll only give it one or two stars :)

P1) climb up through some big blocks and gain the long left-leaning diorite dike. 5 bolts to a bolted anchor. 5.10a 170'
P2) continue up and left, then back hard right, and finally follow another left-leaning diorite dike. 4 bolts to a bolted anchor. 5.10a 150'
P3) step left off the anchor, then up a few moves of hard slab to a ledge. Head right, aiming for the right-leaning crack/seam. Follow it up through a roof, then step left to a bolted belay. 5 lead bolts (3 more than shown in the topo). 5.10+ 160'
P4) "Rotten chimney". It's really not that bad, and can mostly be climbed on the outside. Some loose blocks. Gear belay on large ledge on the arete of the formation. 5.7R 190'
P5) Sweet splitter double cracks right up the narrow arete of the buttress. Gear belay wherever seems fitting. 5.10a 180'
P6) Short section of steep crack leads to some wandering climbing out left then back right up the north side of the tiny summit block. 5.8? 100'

To descend, we downclimbed the south side of the summit block (~10', 5.4), then scrambled down into into the gully behind the formation. 3rd class. The guidebook indicates a rappel, but we never found one or needed it.

Location

On the left side of the buttress, look for the freeway-lane wide black diorite dike.

Protection

Doubles to 3", one 4", 60M rope.

Photos

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