All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress

The Black Pearl

Name: The Black Pearl
Rating: 3.7

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Jackrabbit Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arch Angel, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Black Pearl, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blind Spot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Buffon's Needle Problem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cherub, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Chimney Cricket T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cottontail T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crazy Horse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Degunker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Ernest Stemmingway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Exorcising My Rights T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Geronimo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gigglenut Rampage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Idiocy of an Odyssey T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Juggernaut T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Larry's Leftovers (aka How Did I Get So Lucky) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Make Me an Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Minerva, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Myster Z T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mz. Why T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nelson Miles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Quality Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rabbit Stew T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rose Hips T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Saddle Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	SD Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Senior Discount T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Swine Tasting T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tan Clam T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 170 ft (52 m)
GPS:	36.11526, -115.48953
FA:	Larry DeAngelo and Karsten Duncan, Mar 2008
Page Views:	12,270 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Karsten Duncan on Apr 3, 2008
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

In this unassuming little nook lies one of the best cracks you'll find in the park. The Black Pearl is a classic old-school style testpiece. Superb ebony rock plus a variety of interesting moves and sizes make this one of the best single pitch routes you'll find. I would give it 6 stars if I could.

There are 2 crux sections but the climbing is fairly consistent the entire way. While much of the climbing is wider, the occasional face hold or foot makes the climb more elegant and varied but still a physical endeavor.

Location

Approach:
The climb lies almost directly across the canyon from the Cloud Tower route. Approach up trails as you would to access the brownstone or rainbow wall. As you enter the canyon there is a red-dirt trail that leads out of the wash going up the center of the canyon. Continue on this trail until you pass a large fallen pine on your right. Just after this pine cut rightward off the trail. Go down a grassy slope into a wash. Cross the wash and make your way into a dark recess. The Pearl is on the lefthand side of the recess.

Descent:
UPDATE: Appears a bolted anchor has appeared but still requires a double rope rappel. Thanks Dylan Reynolds for info.

Protection

1/2 set of nuts
Singles of small cams to #.75 camalot
Doubles from #1-#4 camalot
Optional #5 and #6 camalot

Natural belay anchors at top takes either a large cam or some finesse with nuts.

There is typically a long sling or rope that extends over the lip to allow for a smooth rappel over the edge. Notice comments below however that this area seems to be prone to rapid disentigration of webbing. Plan accordingly.