Cosumnes River Gorge Rock Climbing
Batman Can't Fly. Photo is at the crux, transition...
Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades. Descents are as varied as the climbing.
Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.
Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.
The most comprehensive guide book for this area is William Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA
There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. For decades, these climbing areas were on privately owned land, with the owner has permitted hiking and climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requested that no campfires be lit. In 2004, the American River Conservancy
purchased the property and transferred its ownership to the Bureau of Land Management, preserving public access indefinitely.
From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.
Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes to the main climbing areas.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
69 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',40],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Cosumnes River Gorge
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cosumnes River Gorge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cosumnes River Gorge:
Featured Route For Cosumnes River Gorge
Robin's Attic 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a California
: Lake Tahoe
: ... : Dinkum Gulley
At the very back of the chimney, a few feet past Batman Can't Fly, start up the right side of a massive wedged rock and traverse all the way out left under the roof to a wild downward flaring exit. Clip gear plenty long. Top roping would be problematic, without leading it and protecting the second. Listed as 10+ in the 1997 Cottrell Guide....[more] Browse More Classics in California
Midway through the roof. Excellent route, and not ...
Upstream from the climbing area. A lot of sick loo...
A cliff upstream from the big dome. Notice the cra...
Brad starting Scorpio. The climb starts basically...
The big dome shaped boulder with two 5.11 routes (...
Brent leading this route. Little did he know ther...
Cosumnes River Gorge panorama from the Gutenberger...
Bucks Bar Dome, from across the valley on Gutenber...
BETA PHOTO: not-to-scale overview
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 2, 2005
I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time.
By Mark P Thomas
Dec 7, 2012
For those that prefer pretty pictures over reading, here's how to get there: Map
Just drag the "A" icon to where you want to start from.
May 20, 2013
This place is a lot of fun, but I wouldn't really recommend camping right around the crag. This weekend there was a large pile of freshly broken glass along the shoulder where everyone parks. No problem during the day but I didn't want to leave my car there over night. Also, there isn't a lot of level ground in the area and you would have to keep a pretty low profile. Definitely some national forest camping within 10 miles or so.