Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,890 total · 14/month
Shared By: alpenglow on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

Fun crack that is a good first gear lead. The crux comes right off the ground but can be easily protected. The rest of the climb is a very fun and straight forward crack

Location

Downhill and around the corner from unconquerable

Protection

up to a #2 Camalot

Photos

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jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.8-
A #4 BD cam can be placed at eye level off the ground to keep from rolling down the slab if you fall at the crux (i.e. getting off the ground and into the crack). Mar 17, 2008
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.9
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.9
crux is getting off the ground Apr 15, 2013
David Engel
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.8
David Engel   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.8
In reality, the crux off the ground might be harder than a 5.8 move, but the climbing above is at the 5.8 level. If that first move was 2000 feet up in Yosemite, we'd rate it higher. Probably most people try to stand high on the right, put the left foot sideways in the crack and pull onto the left foot or cross over with the right. Dec 3, 2015
Boriss
Sacramento
 
Boriss   Sacramento
 
Felt around 5.9 to me. The tree is kind of a pain when you climb, but still fun. Jan 9, 2017