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Routes in Dinkum Gulley

Amazing Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Batman Can't Fly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dinkum T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drastical T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dreamer TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse V0+ 4+
Finger Eater T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knob Job TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dancing TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Magic Beans T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nightmare TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Palm Beach TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pod, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Robin's Attic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,189 total · 38/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Feb 25, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Dinkum is the quality finger crack on the south face of Buck's Bar Dome. You can easily spot it as you take the path down towards the main area. Begin by climbing a 14' flake then the finger fun begins!

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to 1 inch. You may also hang a top rope from the bolted anchors above dinkum. Walk around to the left to get atop Buck's Bar Dome. The anchors for Dinkum are second from the right when you're looking down.
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.9+
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.9+
This is a wonderful route to lead as the crack takes great gear! Easy climbing to top of "pillar" where two cracks meet. Small stoppers protect the thin finger crack above but footholds are small so placements are a bit strenous. A large cam (3.5 or 4) slides in nicely where the crack widens and then a long reach off a jam gets you to easier ground. A very fun climb! Jul 6, 2005
Nathan L.
  5.8
Nathan L.  
  5.8
One of the better routes and a good lead problem. But more like 5.8+ on lead and 5.8 TR if your not competing with the crack for gear. Feb 9, 2006
scout 2
placerville,ca
scout 2   placerville,ca
A bit of history, This is one of the Training routes For Tony Yanero
Using a 40 lb pack on doing laps up and down. for Grand Illusion The first 5.13 @ sugar loaf.

I've also herd stories of The Don Whillans
,was one of the early pioneers to this obscure area.and may be responsible for the name
of this route. Jul 30, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.9
Pretty cool Yaniro trivia, thanks!

Dinkum is short but very quality. The crux is a great intro to what polished finger cracks are like for those getting into trad. Remembering my own days of "getting into it," you can set a toprope easily enough, but may want to set a backup by slinging the tree above the climb first... It's also a fun thing to come back and lead (or do 40 lb pack laps) later. In fact, myself and most everybody I know does 40 lb pack laps on this rig. It's pretty casual. If you don't have the pack, you can always substitute a beer gut. Feb 3, 2011
stuart.h
Redwood City
  5.9 PG13
stuart.h   Redwood City
  5.9 PG13


It's short and doesn't last long, so to prolong the fun, put in lots of pro the first 10ft from the pedestal and it will give you a good pump. May 9, 2013
Steve Golebiewski
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Steve Golebiewski   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Took my first fall on pro on this climb. Reach high for a solid nut placement before moving up the sustained 10 foot finger crack section then move quickly to reach the wide section. High quality and challenging route. May 15, 2014
John Stilley
California
  5.9
John Stilley   California
  5.9
The last month or two a cam has been stuck in the narrowest portion of the finger crack. At my personal crux point. I like the route a lot less now. The cam will have to be cut or drilled out. Jun 7, 2017
Kim Harrison  
 
This was my first "real" crack climb and it was awesome. Used tape gloves (for the first time) and I'm really glad I did. Jams of all kinds: finger, knuckle, fist, toes...even on top rope, very instructional route. I'll echo an earlier comment to use a static line or cord to lower safely to the anchor bolts, if setting up a top rope anchor from above. The stuck cam is still in there... Nov 2, 2017
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.9
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.9
We climbed this today, 1/28/18. The flake on the right flexed noticeably (see photo with red X). Please be careful and avoid the right side if you are climbing this route. Jan 28, 2018
Nathan Z
Sacramento, CA
Nathan Z   Sacramento, CA
The stuck cam appears to have been removed as of April 2018. Apr 25, 2018
Tim Opsahl
SF, CA
 
Tim Opsahl   SF, CA
 
Great climb - run laps on this to hone it! I thought this was one of the harder 5.9 cracks I've done as a newer 5.9 leader, and took a fall my first go. I thought the individual moves on this were harder than climbs like Committment in the Valley, or The Line at the leap. Apr 26, 2018

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