Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,213 total · 32/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 25, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Climb up the less than vertical crack in the right corner of the main area.

Sustained, this route gives excellent liebacks and jams the whole way up the crack. Trusting your feet on the excellent granite of Buck's Bar Dome is a must, but you can make it to the top!

This route shares a top anchor with Adhesion (5.10c with variations more difficult) just to the right on the face and rounded arete.


Pro up to 2 1/2" will suffice.

To set up a toprope: You can access the top anchors by walking around to the top of Buck's Bar Dome via the exit path to the left.
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
You may want to double up on 1-1 1/2" cams. Nov 13, 2007
I agree with doubling up on the smaller cams if you choose to lead this route.

I set up a TR anchor using the two bolts at the top of the route. There is a little bit of rust on one of the bolts, so I also backed up the anchor using two more bolts that were close by.

This is a fun climb, and the crux is just a bit over half way up. Stick to the right-most crack, and lie-back your way to the top (you'll definitely have to jam to surmount the crux). Oct 4, 2009
Peter Doak
Peter Doak  
Both bolt hangers are moving now. Bolts still seem solid but show rust. Built anchor including neighboring bolts which are better. Route is very climber polished and was greasy around the crux. Still a good lead but protect the crux unless you crush this sort of route. Sep 17, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
If you jam, then the crux is the first 6 ft, and the pod halfway up is the nicest rest on the entire route. Use broth cracks to start, including your left foot/toe in the corner crack while stemming with the right foot. It is very easy this way. Dec 10, 2012
Preston Havill
Redstone, CO
Preston Havill   Redstone, CO
Just did this and many others on Buck's Bar on a trip through the area. I second the + rating as this is somewhat pumpy for a short route, especially through the crux, although rests are possible almost anywhere if you jam a foot or two. Then again I am from Colorado and my feet felt somewhat unsure on this slippery granite. I also thought the top bolts looked suspect and backed up the anchors by clipping a runner to the neighboring anchors to the right. Aptly named and a great climb! Oct 27, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
As a liebacking exercise, this may be 5.8+. However, there's no reason this climb needs to be any harder than 5.7. With good crack technique (i.e. jamming both hands, keeping both feet in the crack, right hip against the wall), you'll find perfect hand jams, with only a short section of thin hands / liebacking in the final 4 feet of the climb.

No matter how you do it, it's a fun climb, and definitely one of the best in the CRG. Nov 2, 2013
I recently visited the Gorge and was surprised to see someone had put new bolts in. The old ones where getting a ton of use and coming loose. The only thing is the bolts are glue ins and not expandable bolts. Anyone know why? Oct 4, 2018