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Routes in Ten-Minute Cliff

5.10 Traverse T V0 4
Babel T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eunuch in a Whorehouse T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Gardens of Babylon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scorpio T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ten Minute Crack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,554 total, 16/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Feb 25, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located right in the middle of the 10 Minute Cliff is the cliff's namesake Ten Minute Crack. Apparently it was so named because of the time it took to hammer pitons into the narrow crack. Now these piton scars are the 'quality' finger holds you'll be using as you struggle you way up it. While its a short climb, its still excellent and teaches the 5.12 crack novice (me) a thing or two about crack climbing.

Protection

Pro to 2" but mostly very small. Up top there are two bolts at the edge of the cliff and a third, older bolt further back.

Photos

Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
Thanks John, hopped on it yesterday, fun climb. Jan 30, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
There are some pics here:

summitpost.org/ten-minute-c… Jan 24, 2012
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
Anyone have pics of this? The only crack I can think of on here didn't seem very 5.12. Jan 24, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
I would agree with Salamanizer about gear on this one. I haven't climbed this in a long time, but the notes that I wrote in my book say (in order): blue alien, yellow WC zero, #5,6,7,8 HB offsets. Thought 12a was fair. Sep 28, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Haven't led this, but it is a great TR that's easy to set up. Also a good practice clean aid crack.

The ground anchor for solo aiding isn't the greatest though, I think I used a 4 and 5 camalot. Mar 16, 2008
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11d
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11d
It hasn't gotten harder, people just got sick of all the ego maniacs sandbagging everything and gave it a more true rating.

On another note, I don't know what you'd need a 2" piece for. A 2" piece will be over cammed in the short hands section up high. Something just smaller...say, 1.5" to 1.75" fits perfectly.

Here's what I used (in order) Blue Alien, Green Alien, Blue Metolius (just below mono digit bottle neck up high), #7 HB offset just above that, and a #1 BD C4 in the short hands section previously mentioned. Then I ran it out to the top. Short, but long enough to make me pucker. Mar 24, 2006
Was rated 5.10 d in the mid 70's. I guess it's gotten harder. Oct 22, 2005