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Routes in Main Area

Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly or Die TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,826 total, 33/month
Shared By: Brad Allender on Dec 3, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Beginner's Cracks are on the right side of the Main Area of Bucksbar Dome. They are just to the left of the candycorn. There are several variations of the climb, all of which share a 5.2 start.

1) Corner Only - 5.6. Follow the obvious corner to the left the whole way up, staying off of the knobs on the face. Climb tops out to the left as you come out of the corner.

2) Small Knobs On Face - 5.8. Follow the knobs that go up between the corner and the crack. Use the face features only.

3) Two Cracks 5.6/7 - Follow the 2 parallel cracks to the off width. Tops out at 2 bolts at the top of the crack. The large left crack is 5.6. The smaller right crack is 5.7. A 5.8 variation can be made by skipping the big knob midway up the off width crack.

Protection

All variations can be top roped from one of two sets of 2 bolt anchors that are easily accessed from the top of the right side of Main Area on Bucks Bar Dome.

The 5.2 start to all variations doesn't take a lot of gear (a 4" piece may work, but is not necessary), but there is a good stance at the end of the 5.2 section to protect above.

Corner Only - Takes 1" to 2.5" and is rather difficult to protect at the top where it gets bigger. Use slings to reduce drag on the lower pieces in the corner.

Two Cracks - 1/2" to 1.5". The lower portion takes good gear in the right crack. The upper portion is a nice off width that will take a few pieces, although they take up the best holds in the crack!

Photos

Great first trad lead — every time you need to place pro, there's a great foot to stand on.

When I went (9/5/2011), there was a wasp's nest quarter of the way up three in crack (dotted red line in picture). I got stung placing a #2... beware! Sep 5, 2011
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
3rd variation seems easiest to place two pieces from a good stance after the 5.2 start and then run it out to the top. May 30, 2009