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Routes in Main Area

Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly or Die TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: UC Davis Outdoor Adventure program climbers, ca.1975
Page Views: 2,366 total, 13/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 25, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up the featured face, which is almost a rounded aretejust to the right of Test Piece (5.8), and sharing the sametop anchor.

Start on the flake at the arete, and work your way up to anintersting sidepull move 20 or so feet off the ground.There are a couple of variations to this route, by keepingthe good hand to the right of the sidepull off, this routeis probably a 5.11a. By working without the reachy move tothe dish on the left about 15 feet off the ground, thisroute is probably a 5.11d.

Enjoy some interesting foot moves in the bottom, andinteresting balance moves up top.

Protection

2 bolts are conveniently set at the top of TestPiece (5.8), which is the corner crack route justto the left of Adhesion. You can also walk aroundto the top of Buck's Bar Dome by walking around tothe path on the left side of the rock.

Photos

Boriss
Sacramento
 
Boriss   Sacramento
 
Really fun! Wish it was a sport climb. Jan 9, 2017
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
 
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
 
Love this climb! Nov 29, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a great intro to face climbing. Feb 3, 2011
Ryan Kosh
Los Angeles, CA
Ryan Kosh   Los Angeles, CA
Looks like there is now a separate two-bolt anchor at the top of the arete. Feb 15, 2010