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Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly or Die TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 793 total, 5/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Dec 3, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

After mounting the Candy Corn Boulder you will be standing beneath two obvious large knobs on a steep face with a ramp/large flake on your right. Not using the ramp, mantle the knobs and continue straight up on smaller knobs. Avoid exiting right towards the top which is easier. To make a longer, more moderate route continuing up from the Candy Corn Boulder, use the ramp/large flake to mount the two large knobs and then continue straight up (5.8 or 5.9) or once on knobs, angle right a bit to an obvious large hold to mount the top (5.7). IMHO, this is how the route should be described with the 5.10+ mantle being a variation. Which way was the first ascent done...?

Protection

Popcorn, according to Rock Climbs of Placerville by William H. Cottrell, is the top half of rock above Candy Corn Boulder. Popcorn is usually toproped as the protection is nil up there. There are two bolts as anchors left of Popcorn at the top of Beginner Cracks but these anchors make for a pendulum left if you come off on the face. There may be anchors to trees where long slings would be necessary.

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