Elevation: 1,926 ft
GPS: 38.652, -120.707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 137,485 total · 699/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Today
93°F - 66°F 34°C - 19°C
Wed
97°F - 68°F 36°C - 20°C
Thu
97°F - 68°F 36°C - 20°C
Fri
97°F - 67°F 36°C - 19°C
Sat
97°F - 69°F 36°C - 21°C
Sun
98°F - 67°F 37°C - 19°C

Description

Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades. Descents are as varied as the climbing.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.

The most comprehensive guide book for this area is William Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA.

Access

There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. For decades, these climbing areas were on privately owned land, with the owner has permitted hiking and climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requested that no campfires be lit. In 2004, the American River Conservancy purchased the property and transferred its ownership to the Bureau of Land Management, preserving public access indefinitely.

Getting There

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes to the main climbing areas.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cosumnes River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 52
The Pod
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 26
Magic Beans
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 101
Unconquerable
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 140
Test Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Live and Learn
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 20
Squeeze Cheeze
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Gardens of Babylon
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 137
Dinkum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Bat Roof
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Robin's Attic
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Unconquerable Tunnel Through
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Fly or Die
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Adhesion
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Trout Fishing in America
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Ten Minute Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Pod Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 52
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Magic Beans Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 26
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Unconquerable Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 101
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Test Piece Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 140
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Live and Learn Buck's Bar Dome > Great Flake
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Squeeze Cheeze Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 20
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Gardens of Babylon Ten-Minute Cliff
 21
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Dinkum Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 137
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bat Roof Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Robin's Attic Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unconquerable Tunnel Through Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Fly or Die Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 20
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Adhesion Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Trout Fishing in America Gutenberger Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Ten Minute Crack Ten-Minute Cliff
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Cosumnes River Gorge »

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