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Elevation: 1,926 ft 587 m
GPS: 38.6524, -120.7066
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades. Descents are as varied as the climbing.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.

The most comprehensive guide book for this area is William Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA.

Access

There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. For decades, these climbing areas were on privately owned land, with the owner has permitted hiking and climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requested that no campfires be lit. In 2004, the American River Conservancy purchased the property and transferred its ownership to the Bureau of Land Management, preserving public access indefinitely.

Getting There Suggest change

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes to the main climbing areas.

112 Total Climbs

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Location: Cosumnes River Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cosumnes River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 91
Beginner's Cracks
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 70
The Pod
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 141
Unconquerable
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 197
Test Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 52
Live and Learn
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 202
Dinkum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Lichen Us
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Bat Roof
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Robin's Attic
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 88
Adhesion
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Iraqi Dihedral
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Trout Fishing in America
Sport 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Parmesan Prints
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Ten Minute Crack
Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Fingerprint
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Cracks Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 91
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Pod Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 70
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Unconquerable Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 141
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Test Piece Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 197
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Live and Learn Bucks Bar Dome > Great Flake
 52
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dinkum Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 202
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lichen Us Gutenberger Wall
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Bat Roof Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Robin's Attic Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Adhesion Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 88
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Iraqi Dihedral Gutenberger Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Trout Fishing in America Gutenberger Wall
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Parmesan Prints Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Ten Minute Crack Ten-Minute Cliff
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Fingerprint Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
More Classic Climbs in Cosumnes River Gorge »

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