Cosumnes River Gorge Climbing

Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades. Descents are as varied as the climbing.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.

The most comprehensive guide book for this area is William Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA.

Access

There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. For decades, these climbing areas were on privately owned land, with the owner has permitted hiking and climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requested that no campfires be lit. In 2004, the American River Conservancy purchased the property and transferred its ownership to the Bureau of Land Management, preserving public access indefinitely.