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Areas in Cosumnes River Gorge

Buck's Bar Dome 22 / 0 / 33 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 40
Granite Cove 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Gutenberger Wall 8 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Hispaniol Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Midway Rocks 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Struggler Cliff 3 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Ten-Minute Cliff 6 / 0 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Upper Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 1,500 ft
GPS: 38.652, -120.707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 90,492 total · 508/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades. Descents are as varied as the climbing.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.

The most comprehensive guide book for this area is William Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA.

Access

There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. For decades, these climbing areas were on privately owned land, with the owner has permitted hiking and climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requested that no campfires be lit. In 2004, the American River Conservancy purchased the property and transferred its ownership to the Bureau of Land Management, preserving public access indefinitely.

Getting There

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes to the main climbing areas.

70 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cosumnes River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Amazing Chimney
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Pod
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Magic Beans
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unconquerable
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Live and Learn
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Cheeze
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinkum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Us
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gardens of Babylon
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral Bypass
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fly or Die
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adhesion
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ten Minute Crack
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Amazing Chimney Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
The Pod Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Magic Beans Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Unconquerable Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Test Piece Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Live and Learn Buck's Bar Dome > Great Flake 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Squeeze Cheeze Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Dinkum Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Lichen Us Gutenberger Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Bat Roof Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Gardens of Babylon Ten-Minute Cliff 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Dihedral Bypass Gutenberger Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Fly or Die Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Adhesion Buck's Bar Dome > Main Area 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Ten Minute Crack Ten-Minute Cliff 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
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This place is a lot of fun, but I wouldn't really recommend camping right around the crag. This weekend there was a large pile of freshly broken glass along the shoulder where everyone parks. No problem during the day but I didn't want to leave my car there over night. Also, there isn't a lot of level ground in the area and you would have to keep a pretty low profile. Definitely some national forest camping within 10 miles or so. May 20, 2013
I've climbed here quite a bit. It's cool for beginners who enjoy toproping, most anchors can be walked up to. If you sport there's only 3 routes a 10a, 10c, and a 9, they're ok but not great. a near by river makes for good swimming in the summer time. Mar 2, 2005

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