Elevation: 1,926 ft
GPS: 38.652, -120.707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 228,065 total · 1,019/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 27, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Caldor Fire closures, August - September 2021 Details

Description

Nestled into the western Sierra near the town of Placerville, you will find this granite gem. Climbing is quite varied, from short bouldering, sport, and multipitch traditional lines. Most of these are topropeable short lines, physical for their grades. Descents are as varied as the climbing.

Most of the granite in the area has been washed by water over many many years, and now is quite smooth. We're not talking Yosemite glass, so friction routes are still doable.

Boasting several hundred existing routes on many different rocks, there are many many days of climbing for people of all abilities. This is an excellent place to set your first pro, and also a great place for the development of new routes.

The most comprehensive guide book for this area is William Cottrell's Rock Climbs of Placerville, CA.

Access

There are no access fees for climbing in Cosumnes River Gorge. For decades, these climbing areas were on privately owned land, with the owner has permitted hiking and climbing access. A 1979 trip report by Bob Branscomb in the American Alpine Journal mentioned that the owner requested that no campfires be lit. In 2004, the American River Conservancy purchased the property and transferred its ownership to the Bureau of Land Management, preserving public access indefinitely.

Getting There

From Hwy 50, exit on Missouri Flats (Right). Take that a few miles until you find a T-intersection with Pleasant Valley Rd and take that to Bucks Bar. If you are unfamiliar with the area the turnout for parking is just before Buck's Bar Cir., so if you see Bucks Bar Circle road then you just passed the spot.

Once out of the car, head off the right side of the road in the middle of the guard rail. There is a wide trail that is paved for the first few hundred feet. The approach is downhill and takes about 10 minutes to the main climbing areas.

105 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cosumnes River Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 80
Beginner's Cracks
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 59
The Pod
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 34
Magic Beans
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 118
Unconquerable
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 164
Test Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Live and Learn
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Squeeze Cheeze
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Gardens of Babylon
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 157
Dinkum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Bat Roof
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Robin's Attic
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Fly or Die
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 73
Adhesion
TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Ten Minute Crack
Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Fingerprint
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Cracks Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 80
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Pod Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 59
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Magic Beans Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 34
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Unconquerable Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 118
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Test Piece Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 164
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Live and Learn Bucks Bar Dome > Great Flake
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Squeeze Cheeze Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Gardens of Babylon Ten-Minute Cliff
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Dinkum Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 157
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bat Roof Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Robin's Attic Bucks Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Fly or Die Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Adhesion Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 73
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Ten Minute Crack Ten-Minute Cliff
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Fingerprint Bucks Bar Dome > Main Area
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
More Classic Climbs in Cosumnes River Gorge »

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