Gutenberger Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||38.648, -120.706 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ryan Kosh on Dec 1, 2008|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe big dome across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport routes.
The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.
Routes from climber's left/upstream/east to right/downstream/west:
1. East Approach
The Pioneer Route (historic first recorded technical climb in the gorge, uses its own approach apart from all newer routes, looks as green and untouched today as it no doubt did then)
2. Slippery Central Approach
2.A. River Level Routes
Iraqi Wall (single pitch bolted routes)
Tanks for the Memories
Long Dong Arch
Iraqi Dihedral 5.10+
The Easy Way Up
Slick Willy Wall
2.B. Grand Central Belay Station Routes (all start one pitch up at GCBS on the Central Upper Wall).
Grandma Buttons 5.8 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Gutenberger Wall Direct
River Daughter 5.8 R II
3. West Routes (all use the west approach)
3.A. River Level West Routes
Trout Fishing in America
3.B. West Upper Wall Routes
Grizzly Green 5.9 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Right Up the Line
Getting ThereThere are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.
Classic Climbing Routes at Gutenberger Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season