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Routes in Gutenberger Wall

Dihedral Bypass T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Way Up, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Got Gas? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandpappy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Gutenberger Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Gutenberger Wall Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gutenberger's Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Long Dong Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Up the Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sadam. Me? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scud Buster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tanks for the Memories S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trout Fishing in America S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Description

The big dome across the river from Buck's Bar Dome. A number of trad multi-pitch routes are available as well as some sport routes.

The area sees little activity as most people seem to spend their time top roping across the river.

Routes from climber's left/upstream/east to right/downstream/west:

1. East Approach
The Pioneer Route (historic first recorded technical climb in the gorge, uses its own approach apart from all newer routes, looks as green and untouched today as it no doubt did then)

2. Slippery Central Approach

2.A. River Level Routes

Iraqi Wall (single pitch bolted routes)
Scud Buster
Sadam. Me?
Tanks for the Memories
Got Gas?
Long Dong Arch

Iraqi Dihedral 5.10+
Dihedral Bypass

The Easy Way Up

Submarine Bunker
Slick Willy Wall

2.B. Grand Central Belay Station Routes (all start one pitch up at GCBS on the Central Upper Wall).

Grandma Buttons 5.8 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Grandpappy
Lichen Us
Gutenberger Wall Direct
River Daughter 5.8 R II

3. West Routes (all use the west approach)

3.A. River Level West Routes
Trout Fishing in America
Chicken Wire

3.B. West Upper Wall Routes

Grizzly Green 5.9 R II (Branscomb & Vardanega, Feb 1978)
Right Up the Line
Gutenberger's Wall
Gutenberger Edge

Getting There

There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.

The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.

Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations.

bob branscomb

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gutenberger Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: West · Northwest
Sunny Roughly 12pm to 6pm during high season
6am
8pm

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Dan Umber
Rohnert Park, Ca
Dan Umber   Rohnert Park, Ca
I'm suprised to see no info on, what I guess is called, the Gutenberg wall. There is a sweet 5.7 4-pitch trad. route across from bucks bar dome. There are good trad. placements, and a bolt or two to protect some spots that are lacking. The top is a little runout, but easy climbing. Apr 10, 2008
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
There are two basic approaches to the Dome routes. Both can be impossible in high Spring runoff. You could be swept under the boulders and drowned. Use your head and don't die. One approach, mainly for Grizzly Green, Straight up the Line, and Gutenberger's Wall, is to cross the boulders at the west end of the swimming pool. Squirm up a strange little cleft and then class 3 up mossy slabs and some poison oak to a long ledge about half way up the dome. These routes are above this ledge.
The other way is to cross the slippery boulders at the base of the obvious central crack system. This is a little dicey in a couple of spots. At the base of the dihedral below the cracks, there are several options. Several 5.10ish ways up the dihedral with less than thrilling protection or take a low angle crack out and right until can cut back left to a shallow right facing corner, about 5.5-5.7. This leads to a bolted belay point with a lot of slings called the Grand Central Belay Station. All routes can be climbed to from here, usually by 5.4-5.6 low angle slabs, usually poorly protected.
Descent from the dome routes by several methods. You can rap down Gutenberger's Wall, Lichen Us, Straight Up the Line. All are bolted stations. Feb 12, 2009
We pulled the pin on the last pitch of the 5.7 direct. Just thought you all would like to know. My wife pulled it out with her fingers. Just above I got a decent yellow or orange tcu (can't remember). FYI. The pin was half buried and had a horizontal crack at the edge after we pulled it out. Dec 10, 2011
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
The highline routes that have gone up since (at least?) 2011 have had a collateral benefit for us rock climbers. Now the rightmost sport lines on the Gutenberger Wall basically have an extra pitch. Instead of slogging up to the ledge mentioned in the guidebook and the older descriptions here on MP, you can leave the moss and dirt for a lower ledge system - about the same elevation as Grand Central, from what little I could see, and maybe 30 feet below the last rap station - and clip the multitude of highline bolts to belay your leader up a low angle, very mellow warm up pitch.

There, just added a photo showing bodies on the new starting ledge. Feb 25, 2013
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
The high spring runoff has lifted a 40' log behind the approach boulder in the river. The standard approach deacribed by Bob may change to traversing the log. I can't believe the water was that high. Apr 17, 2017

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